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Peak Mountain 3

Copperhead

FA Bill Smith, Doug Grayden, mid-70s
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Copperhead is short and off the beaten track (literally), but it's a worthy challenge. Like many routes at Sunset, it's a stiff one for the grade.

From the left end of the ledge, start at a dirty but easy sloping crack that moves up and left to a ledge. Move right to climb a short and tricky vertical crack -- it's well-protected, but too shallow for jams. After the crack, move up the face on sparse and reachy holds to finish with a mantel topout.

Location

Starts at the left end of a ledge above the trail, about 5 minutes walk down from One-Ten; watch for steps leading to the scramble up to the ledge. Rap from the pine tree at the top.

Protection

Small to medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams). Sling trees at the top or build a gear anchor on the ledge to climber's right of the topout.


Routes in Sunset North


  1. 45
    Copperhead
    5.7+
    Trad