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Peak Mountain 3

Ghost Dancers

FA Paul Landram, 1975
CREATED May 2023
UPDATED May 2023

Description

With balancey moves in places and a stiff finish, Ghost Dancers makes a nice lead for the 5.8 leader ready to push herself/himself.

Starting under a thin crack, climb on thin, hard-to-protect face holds to a stance where you can get in some pro. Continue up the crack to an overhang, then move slightly right to pull the overhang via a handcrack (crux) and up to the top.

For a somewhat easier-to-protect start, climb up to a flake system under flaring cracks a few feet right of the regular start, then tiptoe left to the regular route's crack.

Location

Starts just left of Thin Pockets, on a wide rock face about 80' down the trail north from Broken Arrow. Rap from the fixed anchors.

Protection

Mostly small stuff, nuts and cams up to 1.5"; a #3 or 4 camalot can be handy for the big horizontal just below the crux. Ring anchors at the top.


Routes in Sunset North


  1. 32
    Ghost Dancers
    5.8
    Trad
500 km
300 mi