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Peak Mountain 3

Lincoln Tunnel

FA Doug Foust, Larry DeAngelo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start about halfway up the approach gully.  Scramble (class 3 or 4) up into a left-leaning gully.  Follow this up to a vegetated alcove where progress is blocked.  Above is a darkly varnished wall with a white buttress at its lower right.  Climb the crack on the right side of this buttress to a ledge beneath the ominously wide crack on the right side of the varnished face.  The crack is climbed by going inside until an opening appears allowing exit onto the main face at a tiny belay stance.  Continue up the crack and muscle over the overhang above.  Easier climbing leads to a big ledge.  The last pitch goes up the obvious crack in the corner at the back of the ledge.

Descent is by rappel directly down Ten Dollar Toll.  Note that the first landing spot is not on the big ledge beneath the top pitch, but rather on the steep varnish directly below.

Protection

std rack