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Peak Mountain 3

Uptown Hustler

FA Jordy Cox, Larry DeAngelo
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

From low in the approach gully, scramble up and left to a small niche below a left-slanting jam crack.  On the right side of this niche is a clean wide chimney leading up and right.  Follow this to ledges beneath a highly featured dark wall. An alternative start is to climb the wide crack in the corner to the same ledges.

Climb straight up the highly featured wall on surprisingly easy rock.  Continue to another varnished headwall with a short clean jam crack in its lower right corner.  Climb the jam crack and move up and left on crispy varnished holds with limited protection.  Alternatively, climb the easier crack system above the jam crack.

From the ledge at the top, scramble (3rd class) up and right to the summit of the buttress and rappel off to the north.  (A descent to the west into the gully behind the buttress is also possible immediately after topping out, but is not too pleasant and doesn't make it any easier to get back to your packs.)

Protection

std rack