Buck Fever

Woah, this route is simply amazing!! The rock is bomber, on par with Elusive Trophy, and the climbing is steep, pumpy, and thought-provoking. The guidebook says it's "one of the best sport routes of its grade in the park"; not sure about that any more, but it's damn good.

Stick clip. Begin with 5.10 moves past the first bolt, then up to a ceiling and a good rest. Go straight up the face, work left and right on the best holds, past a cool hueco. After the last bolt, mantel onto a sloping ledge (a little scary with the bolt well below your feet), then reach up to clip high chain anchors.

Alternatively, after the last bolt, you can move left to a handcrack and follow this to the ledge, although you still have to mantel.

On the right side of the Main Wall, midway between Lost Hunters Crack and the arete on the right side of the wall, at a shallow, left-facing corner, and below the right end of a blocky roof 25' up.

Bolts, two bolt anchor.