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Peak Mountain 3

Chingando

FA Chuck Pratt, June 1965
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

On the far left of Reed's Pinnacle Area is a Huge, detached flake, split by a left leaning crack. This huge flake is known as The Iota. The crack is "Chingando".

The Reed guide description says something like "part of the hardman ow training circuit".

In the Sierra Club's mountaineering journal, Ascent, 1973, Jim Bridwell proposed adding letter grades to YDS 5.10's. He gave lots of examples for 5.10a offwidths; Chingando, Girl Next Door, Reed Pinnacle Left, Crack of Despair, Crack of Doom, The Cookie Left, Penny Nickel Arete...

Location

From the Reed's parking area walk uphill along the road 3/4 of the way to the tunnel, then head up a short loose trail directly below the climb. Scramble up a 10' "4th class" block to get to the base.

You can also traverse the entire base area from top of the main trail, dropping down below the Iota formation, and then back up the 4th class block.

Protection

Camalots in order of the climb: #2, #0.75 , #1, #2, #3, 2#4C4 2#5C4, #6C4, #3 BigBro