- Edit (TBD)
Description
Start on top of Reed's pinnacle. There are two old pitons in a corner, with recently cleaned areas. Climb to the end of the corner. Look right for a bolt. Climb past this to a two-bolt anchor. Pitch 2. Climb past a bolt and up to a slab. Climb the well-protected slab to another two-bolt anchor. Pitch 3. The Crux. climb directly right in the arch, pull out of the arch to spy two bolts. Climb past the two bolts on very thin climbing, slightly dangerous because you are over a small ledge, up to a break. There is good pro in the break. First head left into the arch, Then up and right. At the top of the arch hand traverse 30 ft left to a two-bolt anchor. Pitch 4. Head left through a small tree into a left-facing corner and up. Then left to a two-bolt anchor. Bolts above this may lead to a walk-off.
Rappel route. The Second rappel requires a directional.
The first pitch was not freeable due to debris. The third pitch climbing into the arch seemed much harder than 10D. Moss and Grit.
Protection
I took doubles. Very thin pro in 1st pitch. Second pitch bolts 8? Third pitch 1/2 inch to 3 inches. #4 optional. fourth pitch #3 and 4. I did not use any nuts.We had a 70. 60 probably fine.
Routes in Reed's Pinnacle
- 14Reed's Erect5.10dTrad