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Peak Mountain 3

American Wall

FA B. Molzon, D. Shori, 1977
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start up a wide crack below a left-facing corner, just southeast of the Gulf of Mexico. This start is probably harder than the traditional grade fo 5.3 it was given. Perhaps it is 5.5 or 5.6. Once through the awkward start, pull up into Central America and grab your way into central Mexico, with a good hold somewhere in the Yucatan. Now that your feet are also on solid ground and no longer in the East Pacific, place some slings on chicken heads and puzzle pieces and head for the border. Climb up on easy holds up and left to a small ledge, then up lower angle rock to a large ledge. Webbing on trees was once the mode to belay from here, but since, bolts have been placed for a belay and rap.

To make it challenging, skip the crack and pull directly onto the map into Mexico from SE of Texas. This is height dependent.

Location

This climb is just right of center in the main amphitheatre of Fortress Wall. It is identified by two features: its proximity and shared start with American Crack (an obvious left-facing corner), and its pattern of darker flakes, resembling a map of North America, just out of reach of the ground, which are the features to be climbed.

Protection

A few slings on chicken heads and puzzle pieces. It would be best not to fall...