PLENTY Of Sun

As far as I can tell this was indeed a new route, but it’s hard to believe this had not been climbed before at a fairly popular cliff. It starts the same as route 52 and climbs the wide crack up to a small ledge. (Highly recommend a 5 and 6 for the first pitch) From here set an anchor and belay up. I believe the original route 52 follows the big crack veering left and traversing around on to the ledge with cussin crack.

For plenty of sun continue up the big crack for 15ft or so then do a couple face moves up and right to gain a seam. Make a couple horizontal placements and the seam turns into a major dihedral that goes to the top of the main cliff. There is one wide section where a 5 or 6 is helpful (which is needed on the first pitch anyways). At the end of the dihedral make a face move to the right, grab the top of the cliff and make an airy mantle top out.

Pitch 1: 50 ft hands to offwidth belay on small ledge

Pitch 2: 80ft continue up the wide crack then move right to a seam that turns into a big dihedral take the dihedral to its end and top out the cliff.

Descend via tree one 70m gets you back to the ground.

Surprisingly good route, clean rock, good protection the whole way, and it tops out the main big cliff at a moderate grade! Plus a great view!

Start same as route 52, 20 ft climbers right of cussin crack.

Rack to 6”