The Dali Stand Start

The Dali Stand Start offers an opportunity for mere mortals to sample this excellent problem without the need to haul 18” biceps up the grueling approach. Although it skips most of the best moves on the route, this is still a worthwhile endeavor, and a must-do if you’re in the area and boulder at the grade.

Begin with right hand on a 1” deep sloper ~6’ off the deck, and left hand on a 1-pad deep, 3-pad wide incut crimp that sits atop a 1” deep diagonaling edge. Paste your feet on, make sure your spotter is ready, and huck for the obvious sloping rail (apparently there is short-person beta that involves the sickening crimps to the left). Tape over any bloody flappers, chalk up, and try again. This time dyno for the GOOD part of the rail. Once you stick the dyno, match on the rail, and traverse right along the rail as it curves up to the lip, to an easy exit.

Descend easy slabs on the N side of the boulder, traversing to the west (toward the creek).

In the center of the South Face of the Dali Boulder, beginning below the lowest part of the broad sloping rail that sits ~8 feet above the ground. Its also about 3 feet left of the Lama flake system.

At least 2 pads. There's quite a lot of jumbled rock at the base.