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Peak Mountain 3

Secret Entrance to The Lollipop Guild

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Description

Enjoyable and easy face climbing that follows up a system of flakes. The route was naturally fairly clean on a warm, sunny December day and pleasantly light on choss and loose rock, although it had some spiderwebs in the big upper flake when I had scouted it out earlier in the summer.It protected well with a standard rack of cams; be cautious not to place gear behind/in any of the thinner flakes or pods. I would recommend bringing tri-cams for the pods and horizontal cracks, but not required.Belay a second off the live tree at the top (backup the tree with a cam under the boulder if you want), or rappel down to clean, and hike up the pipe corridor to retrieve your anchor.

Location

From the Memorial Overlook parking lot, hike west (right when facing lake) on the trail for 2-3 minutes until you come to a sewage lagoon on the right and large pipe leading down to the lower level to the left. Carefully follow the pipe down to the lower trail about 25 vertical feet down, then continue further west on the lower trail about 100 feet around one corner and you will see the wall this route is on.

Protection

Standard rack of cams. Tri-cams are a bonus.