Main Cliff

Main Cliff is the tallest wall at Rumney and also home to some of the best routes. Whereas most of the other cliffs at Rumney are composed of schist, Main Cliff is distinguished by a band of quartzite stretching across it's middle. This rock has many of the characteristics of the best sandstone: fine grained, angular, and bullet hard.

Most climbs on the Main Cliff proper ascend distinct corners and aretes, and the climbing feels a bit more "trad" than at other cliffs. Though the routes can be long and pumpy, the different rock presents various technical challenges. Insecure stems, burly laybacks, and technical smearing can be found on almost all of the routes on the center of the cliff. Various outlying walls also comprise the Main Cliff area.

Main Cliff is large and complex. Ward Smith's guidebook is de rigueur for navigating this area.

It was brought to my attention that the rockfall warning on the Main Cliff Right description could do well here as well.

ATTENTION: In March, 2010, there was a massive rockfall at Main Cliff. It probably originated above Iron Man, Gold Digger, or Rock du Jours. Be extremely careful when hanging out at the base near these routes. This area is very unstable. The possibility of another rockfall appears significant. Routes such as Rock Du Jours, Gold digger and others in that vicinity are of greatest concern.