Peak Mountain 3

Thimble, The

Description

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There are at least three traditional (ground up) routes on this rock. The first is the long downhill side, climbed by Dave Rearick and the Conns in the late 1950s. Dave carried a drill bit and a stud and hanger with him, but was not forced to use it for protection. The route is about 5.6. The second is around the corner to the right and ascends the left side of the steep face that overhangs the parking lot. Start on the left side of this face and move several feet up to a shallow groove, then to the top. It's about 5.8, if I recall correctly. The third is my unrehearsed 1961 free solo route up the slightly overhanging face to the right of route #2. It took me several visits before getting up the nerve to top out. At the time 5.10 was the top of the scale, and it was years later that this climb was recognized as the first 5.12. The second ascent (in the style of the FA) was about 1987. John Sherman made an ascent in 1991 (see "Stone Crusade"). It has seen some top ropes, but, thankfully, no bolts. This was the climb that some say marked a turning point in the popularity of bouldering.


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