The route follows the path of least resistance up the west shoulder of Mammoth Rock. It offers a fun alternative to the short and easy scrambles up the southern side. The rock is not very good and would be hard to lead, but if you are comfortable soloing roughly 4th class terrain over loose rock, this route may be for you.

Start at the obvious ramp system about a third of the way up. It is a stair-like break in otherwise steep face. This is the start of the route. From there, follow the path of least resistance trending to climber's right. A few awkward moves are encountered, but never more than a move at a time. Once on the summit, descend by heading south towards the saddle between the Sherwins and Mammoth rock to downclimb the southern face by either the South Chimney (2nd Class) or the South Face (3rd Class).

West Shoulder

South Gully

Justification

Justification starts up a short couloir that runs halfway up the northwest face before traversing onto the west shoulder to the summit.

Start climbing the couloir up moderate snow past two chockstones to a small snowfield below a 20' of easy mixed climbing. The easy mixed will end in the largest snowfield and the end of the couloir. From here, traverse climber's right on an obvious ledge to a chimney. Climb the chimney until possible to traverse to climber's right again to easier terrain. Once out of the chimney, climb virtually straight up to the top.

About the easiest way to a nice summit with big view. One short sequence much harder than the rest which is mostly steep hiking, a little 3rd class scrambling.

About 620 vertical feet from parking to summit.

Could be useful as a descent route.

Approach: Trailhead with sign is on Old Mammoth Rd around GPS latitude longitude (N37.6186 W118.9932) -- not many parking spaces. After a short ways SE on the bike + hike trail, head off Left steep up SSE aiming toward Mammoth Rock. Higher up aim to the right of the rock, and reach the saddle connecting the rock with the main Sherwin Crest slope, around (N37.6144 W118.9915).

South gully starts a bit below the East side of the saddle ridge. Into the gully and scramble up its right side. Squirm under rock to get to left side of gully. Up a steep section with some thoughtful stemming moves (perhaps facing outward?). Next scramble up to reach the East ridge of Mammoth Rock. Hike roughly W up the ridge to the summit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mammoth Rock