Start in a splitter hand crack that goes to fist. Then bust the bulge with cupped hands and into hand flake. the flake turns back to splitter and starts thin down to fingers but now in a chimney. Exit the chimney and slab up to the top of the formation to the bolted belay.

Dis-infect

The Wolf Dog Shuffle

Guides Route

Seamed Right

2 Much

Jumping Shark

Unknown (Just right of Angry Inch)

Last Resort

Winner Takes All

Pride & Joy

The Suspect

Unnamed

Place

Thriller

Dynamo Humm

Pray for Giveness

Good Boy

Say Your Name!

The Angry Inch

The route starts as perfect hands and goes to fists (unless you have small hands) through a slight overhang.  Pulling past the bulge into the flaring crack above is probably the crux for most.

A short but sweet right leaning big fingers crack

Fun climb that works through all hand sizes. Starts on a 15' detached pillar. Climb the right side, then place gear above it. Pass a short section of off-fingers in the back of the #4 crack (crux) and continue up hands from there to a section of #3s before the anchor.

This route is post "Creek freak edition". Start in a left facing corner with big hands and fists (perhaps just bigger than fist for the small handed folk) up to a rest stance. Now the corner switches aspects to right facing. Starts with hands and quickly pinches down to less than tips and a seam (crux). Once through the crux continue with off fingers and tight hands to a ledge stance and the anchor.

This is one of the few routes that I found that had a plaque.  Starts with steep fingers in a right facing corner to splitter ringlocks and thin hands.  About 30' up a block is encountered that forces you out right to a hand crack.  From a stance above the block continue up a flaired left facing corner that goes from thin hands to fingers.  About 8' of choss needs to be climbed to get to the anchor otherwise this would be a 3 star route.

Start off in the awesome hands to off fists splitter before climbing through a pod and following a #1 crack up right. Bust out left following a horizontal .5 rail (splitter!) before getting to a small ledge and continuing to the top laybacking on .75! RAD

Start is brief right facing corner .5 to .75, short bit of broken climbing to a stance underneath the hand crack. Hero hands out the overhang to 3s get you to the base of the stacked blocks. Step onto the stack for a breather before the crux - wicked cool flare climbing with .5s in the back

This is one of the best finger cracks at Indian Creek. Start in a stemming corner for twenty feet then pull some thin moves out of a roof. From there its onto fifty feet of amazing fingerlocks on a slightly overhanging smooth wall. It gets into rattly fingers twenty before the leftward traverse that takes you to the anchors.

Hard to believe that routes this good can still be had in such a popular place!  Starts in a right facing corner with tight fingers/tips through a bulge to a nice stem rest.  Continue up through a steep fingers and off fingers crux with a few feet out right that keep the grade manageable.  Fun climbing the rest of the way leads to a nice ledge below a big detached flake.

Note:  This route could continue for at least another pitch if it wasn't for the flake but I wouldn't recommend it.  If that flake peels off you and your belayer are F#$ked!

Very short, almost horizontal roof that's the best way to get to the base of Thriller.

A short but fun crack in a right facing corner.  Starts as a layback or tight jams to hands.  A good lead for newbies.

A short, wide warmup. Kelley says 1.0-4.0, mostly 3.0, and my partner got seriously Kelley-bagged on this one. It's mostly 5s with one 4.

Perfect hand crack for the first half leads to a couple sections of .75s and 1s between good rests. Originally rated 5.12- by Steve Hong, this felt more 5.11, but was definitely the highest quality climb I did on this wall.

Note: The 140' length is only to get to the ground. The climb can be TR'ed on a 70, maybe a 60.

crux is half way up on "sporty flakes". awesome and varied thinner climbing after turning a roof 20' up via layback with a face climbing finish!

Easily recognizable for the squeeze chimney that starts fifteen feet off the ground, and isn't exited for the following 30 feet.  Protect the start with a # 3 and a #1 before entering the elbow and knee pressing namesake section of the route. Move out of the chimney into a short section of left facing off width, before another ten feet of left facing off fingers on black rock. Clip the chains out left at a hand jam pod.

Execute a short boulder move to get above the small cave and begin pushing your digits into the gradually widening #.3 crack. Anchors are on the right after two small roof cruxes.

Good hands in a left facing offset to spltter wide hands and a thin finish. Quite enjoyable whatever your name is.

This route is angry for sure!  Unless your fingers are the size of brats your going to be swimming in this thing.  At least it starts and ends with a nice finger crack and the clipping stance at the anchor is 1st class, none of that desperate anchor clipping crux crap on this route.

Folks with small fingers can probably ringlock there way up this route but I don't think it would change the difficulty.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Disappointment Cliffs