Climb the blunt face arete, smearing, edging, crimping, wandering to and fro past 5 bolts to the anchors.

Glass Onion

Hog Waller

Voyeur Variation

La Hora Brava

Hellbound for Glory

Pulling on Porcelain

Luck of the Draw

Nestle Krunch Roof

Can't Find My Guernsey Cow

The Height of Flashin'

Maximum Leader

It's a shame that you can't access this wonderful face climb without doing the dirty start of The Frictional Heat Experiment.   Despite this, it's worth it.  Do it!   Climb up the face to reach a small overhang and first bolt.   Traverse out left to reach the crack in the overhang and traverse back right to reach the 2nd bolt.  Move left long the horizontal crack to its end, clip the 3rd bolt and head straight up to reach a small overhang (crux).  From here, head up the face, trending right for a bit, finding positive holds between thin moves.   The route thins out around the last bolt, but positive holds will take you to the anchors.

The start is probably the hardest bit, transitioning left after the crack peters out could spit you off if you don't like pulling on lichen. A good route if you are up for an adventure.

Face climb past two bolts to the left edge of a giant roof. Step out and around the roof and get established in the dihedral. Excellent climbing leads up the dihedral - jamming and stemming. Pull a mini roof before clipping the anchors.

Start in the corner to the right of The Glass Onion and follow the chimney to an offwidth through a roof.  This is such an obvious line that it has likely already been climbed and named.  I'm putting it in here because it's a worthwhile route and ought to see some traffic.  If anyone has information about a prior ascent, please let us know.

The moves on Pulling on Porcelain are challenging and fun, but the main thing that detracts from the quality of this climb is its close proximity to its neighbor, Maximum Leader.  Through the first six bolts there are times when you have little choice but to stray into the bolt line to the right.  You get to decide just how contrived you want to make this line.  This is one of the longest and most varied routes on the endless wall.

Begin by jumping off the ground to a jug and zooming to a horizontal break just below the second bolt.  Get ready for the V6 crux which involves surmounting a bulge through the use of some tricky footwork and precision deadpoints.  At this point the division line between the two routes becomes a bit blurry so climb the line of least resistance and try not to overcomplicate things.  Rest up at the sixth bolt on a dinner plate jug and then move into the second sustained crux.  Hug the overhanging arête and make some long reaches between incut pockets.  The final moves of the sequence, transitioning left around the arête, are both delicate and powerful.  It is best to climb past the eighth bolt before you attempt to clip it.

With the eighth bolt clipped all that stands between you and the chains is five more bolts of tenuous 12a slab climbing.  Embrace this solo journey as it is all but impossible for your belayer to see you.  Enjoy the exposure!

Additional Notes: Leave the first bolt unclipped and stick clip a long sling to the second bolt to reduce rope drag.  A double length draw on the final bolt makes clipping more manageable.  The route gets shade by mid day.

If you're in the Hellbound area and want some variety, check this route out.  Start in a dirty corner, traverse right and place a red camalot if you don't have a 28 foot stick clip, and then head up some really cool edges and lichen-ey slopers.

Start under the big roof at the left-facing corner.  Climb the corner to the big roof, then traverse left to the base of the corner where the Voyeur Variation joins up.  Build a belay.  The second pitch climbs the nice lieback corner above.

Begin under the Nestle Crunch roof by using a crack feature left of the first bolt to gain the face. Make technical moves towards the arete and another bolt.  After clipping the third bolt get a decent shake and power thru the next two bolts of horizontal pulling on worsening holds. Continue on amazing holds and movement gettin pro when you need it, aiming slightly right towards a pin. The top section of climbing doesn't disappoint, as the climbing continues to be interesting and engaging with a sweeping slab below you as you top out the endless wall. Trees for anchor.

The start is a bit thuggy, with some moves on the slab requiring a good amount of friction. The top is easier than it looks from below.

Let me start off by saying that this is one hell of a good route and should be on every 5.12 NRG climber's list of must do routes. Diversity of movement, length, setting, and difficulty all come together on this classic.

Maximum Leader starts on the huge boulder between Hellbound for Glory and Luck of the Draw. Pulling on Porcelain, a 13a, starts just left of it and unfortunately follows Maximum Leader closely most of the route. But you'll get over this minor point quickly once realize the radness of this rig.

The route starts with a desperate boulder problem that might be a bit easier for shorter folks. Figure out this powerful start and ready yourself for another powerful 12- roof pull. Once into the dihedral, the climbing eases off for a few bolts until the last 4 bolts. Get ready for classic, hard, vertical "Sendless Wall" style climbing. Don't be afraid to do a bit of wandering up there to reach the anchor.

While at the anchor don't forget to sit back and look over your shoulder to take in this old river gorge in all its beauty. You damn well earned it, Sir Lordeth Maximum Leader!!!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in H) Hellbound Area