FREE SPEECH

Climbers on Free Speech, 5.12a.

There is a bolting ban on this aspect of The Whale's Tail. Luckily for us sport climbers, Mike Brooks got this one done before the ban. It is everyone's right to whine about slippery river polish. Ha! But really, the quality of the rock is excellent, the holds are comfy-smooth, and the approach is world class easy.

A huge stick-clip can be employed to reach the first piece of protection; an ancient ring-angle under the roof. Alternatively, a crash pad makes the start a lot safer too.

The ring-angle piton is the second fixed pin on

Spoof

and hard to see in the shadows under the roof. Blow off the first pin on

Spoof

. That way leads to Crazy Town just before you're able to clip the second pin. I prefer my cruxes lower, so instead climb straight up to a slippery, unprotected, 5.9+

undercling

up onto a smeary left foot.

THE UNDERCLING

5.9+.

Slightly easier high ball bouldering gains the ring-angle piton under the roof. Clip the rope in from the nice hold an inch left of the ring angle (finally!).  Back up the old pin by stuffing a purple/0.5 Camalot next to your fingers and the pin.

Begin the sport climbing by leaning out right to clip the first bolt. The crux is basically top-roped. Begin with a tricky toe-hook under the roof, find the left hand undercling, and then get both hands firmly established on river polished slopers.

SETTING UP FOR THE CRUX DYNO

5.12a.

After getting hands matched on the highest sloper, launch rightward to a pistol grip that is both comfortable and secure for the next clip.  My feet always cut loose after the sideways dyno to the pistol grip and that feeling of success when regaining control is what makes this route so fun.

CLIPPING THE SECOND BOLT

Pistol grip.

After clipping the second bolt, your left hand goes into a deeply incut finger-bucket. Get the feet up as high as possible. Paw at the lip with the right hand, then dyno (about 15 degree right of vertical) to a totally hidden mini-pothole that ends the business.

REACHING FOR THE POTHOLE

Hard to on-sight because you can't see the mini-pothole!

ANCHOR

I added a second anchor bolt about 1991 with committee approval.  No links or chains allowed per Park rule.  Adding protection for the extension didn't fly with the members at that time.

EXTENSION

Adding a bolt to protect the extension would make a much better route.  For now, continuing is at least 5.9 and the gear is not to be trusted.  The crux is pulling the final bulge and a fall might end upon the retaining wall.

Free Speech

Second Coming

C'est What?

No Problem

Dihedral Two

Buffoon

Horangutan

Finger Crack

Gumbo

Martindale

West Face [Whale's Tail]

West Dihedral

Dihedral One

Spoof

The Yorkshire Ripper

NED (Nothing Except Dynamics)

Jack The Ripper

East Slabs

Amputee Love

West Crack

The Monument

M aka The Divine Ms. M

Jim Crack

Ahab

Buffoonery

New Cambria

Kid's Climb

Clementine

Fight Gone Bad

Gut Feeling

Northeast Arete

Spoof Roof

Left Arete

Spoof follows an obvious line along the strata in the south face of the Whale's Tail.  It begins about 30 feet right of the Cave, and moves up and left all the way around to the west end.

Rossiter describes the crux as the first 25 feet of the route.  I would describe it as the first 30-35 feet.  Three factors come together to make this something of an intimidating lead: the rock is water polished, the climb is constantly traversing, and the stances and gear are adequate but not ideal.  For those reasons, your feet feel insecure, your ground fall potential is increased, and your pump and pucker factors are higher than you might expect.

Rossiter didn't give this route a star, and I agree.  Unless you enjoy the things I already mentioned, plus being on display since you're climbing from the trail, there's not much motivation to climb Spoof.  If you're looking for 5.8+ routes at Eldorado, you've got several alternatives: Werk Supp (P1 only), Mr. Natural, Chianti, and even Flakes to Whistlestop (5.9-) are all better, easier leads.

If you're still planning on giving it a go, be hyperaware of your ground fall potential when you get runout beyond the crux, and beware of loose rock when you come out of the dihedral at the top of the triangular slab above the cave.  I carefully tested my holds there, and still took a 25-30 foot fall when I blew out a rock.  I sprained both of my wrists and gouged my helmet, but if either my top piece (#3 tricam) or my belayer's anchor had failed, I probably would have decked onto the trail.

Find the route as for "Spoof" climb up the ramp of Spoof for about 30 feet, until a few bolts become [visible] overhead and slightly to the right.  Those are the bolts of 'M.'  Instead of climbing 'M,' traverse directly to the right, forcing a slightly contrived line about 2 meters further to the right.  Climb directly up through the roof and then diagonally left to reach the anchors of 'M.' The holds are more positive than most Eldo 5.11s.

This is a cool short route on the Whale's Tail directly east of

C'est La Vie

. The start is quite heady, a 5.8 slab where you wouldn't want to fall. Fortunately the holds are positive. A #1 Camalot protects the first clip, and can be backcleaned after clipping. The route goes up the gently overhanging wall on the west side of the Whale's Tail, around the corner from the 5.2 crack. It is short but pumpy and sustained. The moves are really cool. The pitch ends at a two bolt anchor and can easily be toproped from this anchor.

Starting from the west end of the saddle twixt Redgarden Wall and the Whale's Tail, traverse up and right out a slightly questionable band of rock. Finish in a small, right-facing dihedral to the right of the tree on the "

Northeast Arete

".

On the South Side of the Wind Tower there are 2 vertical dihedrals along the trail between the foot bridge and the cave. Both are open and somewhat irregular. Both are polished and smooth.

The second of these passed on the Streamside Trail (left-most) is Dihedral Two.  Like

Dihedral One

, this route is slick and somehow still a little fun, although not very aesthetic. At 5.8+, it is another sandbag.  Once again, the polished nature of the South Face of the Whale's Tail makes me say 5.8+... +1.  It is 5.9.

Go up the dihedral placing a few TCUs and nuts on your way up. Muscle and balance your way through the slippery crux. Move up the corner/flakes and pull up and over to the slab and find a place to set some larger gear for a belay.

Descend by finishing up on the slabs to the top, or by traversing off and to the climber's right, effectively reversing "My Dogma Got Run Over By My Karma" to the back side slabe of the tail.

Like

Dihedral One

, this route [has] fun and interesting moves but is not very aesthetic.

Just right of

Gumbo

, start off the boulder on the right wall, and make runout moves to a seam on the short wall.

Another way to approach this is to step over to the ledge from

Gumbo

, bringing this climb down to 5.5.

The begining is heavily chalked up and somewhat greasy. Break left to move above the roof and then follow left just above the roof for about 20 ft. take the thin right angling crack to the anchors on the slab above and to the right.

This is a short 20 foot pitch that can be used to gain access to the start of

West Crack

,

West Dihedral

and others.

This is a good access point for

West Crack

. Climb the short finger crack to a good ledge.

Climb up a not-so-obvious crack that goes up and curves right finishing on the big ledge. It is a good start to the

West Crack

. The crux is short and secure.

Attain the ledge on the West side of the Whale's Tail as for

West Crack

or

West Dihedral

. Put in a belay anchor there and if desired, go a few meters up

West Crack

, and sink in a good cam or stopper before starting off on this climb. Step to the right side of the large ledge, and climb upwards on the clean face on good edges and ledges to mid-face, where a few small-to-medium stoppers can be placed behind a left-facing 2' crack/flake. This is the crux (5.6?). Pull this move, and continue upward toward the top, getting just a few more [pieces] along the way.

Belay from gear on top or from the side of the anchor above

West Crack

.

To descend, rap from that anchor to the ledge, or to the ground with a 70m rope.

This is a great route that receives good winter afternoon sun. It is shady in the morning in summer. It is a good beginner lead. Attain the belay ledge shared with West Crack via a 4th class scramble. Spy the large, left-facing dihedral to the right. Build an anchor and climb the dihedral. When the large obvious flake at the top of the climb ends, then traverse left to the West Crack anchor.

To descend, rap from the fixed anchor at the top of

West Crack

. Rap with a 60 meter rope to the ledge at the base of West Crack or a 70 meter rope to the ground.

On the South Side of the Wind Tower there are 2 vertical dihedrals along the trail between the foot bridge and the cave.  Both are open and somewhat irregular.  Both are polished and smooth.

The first of these passed on the Streamside Trail (rightmost) is Dihedral One.  This route is thin, hard, slick, and somehow- it is fun.  This route has fun and interesting moves, but is not very aesthetic.  At 5.10d, it is quite the sandbag, I grade it moderate 5.11... a slick, thin, tricky, 5.11 on questionable protection.  I fell a few times on the route prior to success.  My partner, after watching me do the route fell several times as well.  We both normally on-sight 5.11.  Mike Brooks was walking below so I asked him what he thought of the grade, as I believe he'd done it... 5.11?  He concurred.

Go up the dihedral placing a single small TCU and a few moderate to poor stoppers before balancing your way through the crux.  Pull over to the slab and find a place to set some larger gear for a belay.

Descend by finishing up on the slabs, or by traversing off and left to the back side slabe of the tail.

This is an interesting route which held more rewards for me than I'd expect for an obscure and discontinuous, somewhat unnatural line. I was tempted to give it two stars, but the climb is a one-star climb. My experience had to do more with getting over fear and committing to do the route. It was the nature of the climb I suppose that finally rewarded me for a little boldness after 2 aborted leads in the previous 5 years. This line is up and left (north) of Jack The Ripper. Although the name might imply that it is a variation of the less obscure line, it shares no territory and is not even that close of a neighbor. Its proximity to the similarly named route is more significant than its similarity. The Yorkshire Ripper is runout. It is much harder and in my opinion more dangerous than Jack The Ripper. The crux is done on bad gear and is just far enough from the ground to really mess you up--and then there is the talus... and the 15' drop just past the edge of it. Make sure your belayer is secured to make impossible the chance of you both going over the edge.

Find the obvious climb "Jack The Ripper". Then climb and scramble up the gully between the Whale's Tail and the Bulge Wall. Find a very shallow, left-leaning, steep corner with a tiny crack in it. Climb this for 5 meters (crux, bad gear, worse landing) to a rest ledge, then follow discontinuous cracks and seams up and right to a blank arete, with no pro. Maybe 5.9 to the top.  Head up and over to belay--ideal gear is hard to find in the fractured top, so be prepared to string distant pieces together.

Some TINY cams might fit, or maybe some Lowe balls. The old HB Cobras might be ideal gear, but the route felt like VS on nuts alone.  I'm very curious to hear other accounts of ascents of this route... No surprise that Derek did it first, I guess.

Located on the south-facing, west-side of the infamous Whales Tail Cave, this severely overhanging, gymnastc overhang involves a dynamic move to gain the central hold, which is then utilized by using a toe hook, then a swing out to the lip, which is then heel hooked and surmounted via a rolling forward thrust move from out under the lip. This popular route is mostly top roped, rarely lead, and has been free-soloed only once. It has a variety of variations to gain the summit including a strenuous, direct, static version.

The route is the dihedral to the center of the diamond-shaped roof of the Whale's Tail, just left of

C'est What

?  The route traverses out right under the roof to finish up on top, which is super steep and exciting.  In term of LEADING routes, this is my most frequented route in Eldo.  I've done it about a dozen times and I still enjoy it at the end of a day when not much time is left.  Plus, it never has a queue! One must be SOLID at the grade.

This is the easiest line up the Whale's Tale, providing easy access to the summit and a good view.  Depending on your exact line, this route can range from 5.0 to 5.4, and is very similar to the opening pitches of the Third Flatiron.  Pro is spaced in some areas, but is adequate.  Think Third Flatiron.

This is the short top rope route to the right of

Horangutan

on very slippery rock.

In my opinion, this is the finest beginner's lead climb in the state.  It has excellent pro and easy but airy climbing.

The traverse to the belay ledge is 4th class but exposed; it is a good idea to rope up on it.  From the roomy belay ledge, the crack goes straight up - no rope drag and no route finding.  The start is the most intimidating part, but it is easier than it looks.

Holds are generously placed in and around the crack and always where you need them.  There are a few easy jams and manteling moves.  It feels harder than 5.2 - it's steep, and the wind blowing through the canyon gives the climb some exciting exposure.  It has beautifully solid rock and wonderful, wonderful pro.  I placed my entire set of stoppers and several hexes into the crack.

Rappel from the two bolt anchor that is shared with

West Face [Whale's Tail]

and

West Dihedral

on the top of the route.

If you are learning to lead, you must make this one of your first!  Beautiful.

Feeling burly?  Dig slippery cave climbing? This hyper-visible line climbs left to right out of the back of the grotty cave on the south face of the Whale's [Tail], right above the main trail to Redgarden.

Either boulder up (slightly heinous) or stick clip the first bolt and continue right on underclings and strange spikes to the lip of the cave.  Going left past another bolt to finish yields a fine 13a, while the standard route goes up and slightly right via the crack/layback.

While not the prettiest route in the Canyon, The Monument is athletic and steep and is perhaps one of the most photographed sport routes in America.

Find the route as for "Spoof" climb up the ramp of spoof for about 30 feet, until a few bolts become [visible] overhead and slightly to the right.  The holds are positive and the bolts are good.  [Go] up and over the overhang diagonally right to the first bolt.  Clip this and move up to a second bolt.  From the second bolt climb the short crux to reach the bolt anchor above.

Lower off from the bolt anchor.

Begin as for

West Dihedral

, working up the easy, low angle corner. Where

West Dihedral

moves left under flakes, head straight up and engage the crack above. Some awkward, yet solid, jams and a large jug will get you to the top. Move left and finish on the

West Crack

anchor.

Climb up on decent jugs and traverse left under the roof with minimally appropriate gear and balancy feet. Turn the roof (crux), and ascend easier ledges to the left-leaning hand crack (or the harder seam just to the right), ending up-slope from the small pine.

Start up

Buffoon

using unusual but perfect pinch jugs on a steep roof until you establish over the bulge. Place a small cam and/or a nut, then proceed to traverse out right towards the arête. Use small feet, and make a few balance style moves using good holds. Once you are established on the arête, scramble up to the obvious Whale’s Tail ledge.

Start 20 feet left of the

West Crack

at the base of a vertical face. Use large holds to ascend steep rock up and right to the arete. Turn the arete out onto the face. Climb past a small roof straight up and continue straight through the somewhat dirty although secure face to the anchor.

Located on the west face of the Whale's Tail, this climb starts  as for Clementine, but after 20ft., before getting into the easy dihedral, traverse right on some poor rock.  Climb up into a capped dihedral and escape out right onto the arete and enjoy the romp to the false summit.  You can belay from the anchor for West Dihedral.

This route begins low on the SW side of the formation, up and left around the cave and bouldering at the base.  Locate a left-facing corner, climb up about 15 ft. and traverse right (the hardest part to protect), and over the bulge.  Stick to the left, unless you like bushwacking, and climb an easy face that leads to an easy crack (some loose rocks) which will take you to the false summit.  A 60m trad. rope allowed us to complete in one pitch.  Descend from cable at the top of the

West Dihedral

(10 ft. to the NE).

Climb through the vertical wall just below the roof, place some good cams, and begin climbing out the steep and bouldery roof. A fall from here would be painful if not flat out dangerous. Get to the arete, place a couple good cams, and then bust straight up by laybacking and crimping until it is possible to turn the corner. Finish up the left arete. There is a fixed stopper and a pin at the top for an anchor. This climb was done as a head point after TR rehearsal.

It is fun, steep, physical climbing.

This route can be found on the Tourist Trail below the Whale's Tail, between the pedestrian Bridge and the Monument Cave.  Walk along the trail past a thin, open, left-facing dihedral. ([Dihedral One]) and to a second one, still right facing, undulating dihedral (Dihedral Two.)  You will notice a series of chalked up holds working up and left on jugs to the left of dihedral a meter or two. Along the way you will pad a tapped-in gutter nail.  Continuing the climb upward, through the roof, is easier than stopping for protection anyway, but obviously heady.  Once on the slab, protect and start climbing right, towards the anchors above "M."  These chain & links are good for a lower off or stationary belay.

If you are soloing on the Whale's Tail, this is the easiest descent, although if you left any gear at the base of the route or are going to solo another route on the Whale's Tail, I think downclimbing the West Crack is the easiest and quickest option.  The Northeast Arete is easy, it just takes longer to get back to where you started.

On the South Side of the Whale's Tail a slippery ramp rises from the right to left on a dark band of rock [from the] streamside trail. This route is Spoof. Climb the first 30 or so feet past fixed pins with a few possible tricam or SLCD placements. This section is the 5.8+ crux of Spoof. After a few more moves, a pocketed and chunky crack/dihedral/roof appears overhead. Climb up and slightly to the right on pockets, pinches, underclings, and jams.

Normally, I'd say to continue to a good belay stance, but there isn't one - so just continue until...[there] are some bolted anchors for nearby routes if you want to do some simple rigging, ro you can continue up to the top and scramble off.

I found the climbing to be reasonably fun and perhaps not as bad as described on-line for the route "Spoof," but this is certainly no destination. It's a route to be enjoyed by those who are completists in Eldo and don't mind a bit of obscure climbing.

At least it's not a long walk.

On the left side of the West face of the Whale's Tail, start up route #1, West Crack.  As soon as the face to the left becomes broad, head up left and out on the face, near or on the arete which caps the Jack The Ripper roof.  The climb is edging and smearing on good holds and good, but sometimes distant gear.  A good leader will probably not get hurt on a fall, so I call it "S-" (edit: now known at PG-13).

There are fixed anchors at the top of Jack... so one can rap off.

This route IS worth going to do, but the novice crowd which frequents the area routes West Crack and West Dihedral may be in the way.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Whale's Tail