Starts up around the left hand side of the

Conarette

arete.  Start up a left-facing flake system and follow the obvious route to the large ledge.  Shares anchors with the first pitch of

Conarette

.

Pine Nuts

Kabuli (submitted as Talk to Your Toes)

Four Men on a Rope

Fuzzy Wuzzy

Stories for Boys

Don't Go

Anorexic Lycra Dog

Flatland Therapy

Roof By-Pass

Kashmir

Stemulation

Kayak for Sale

Armaj Das

She's a Moaner

Ben Dover

Neck Row Feel Ya

Punks and Old Men

Blossoming Bosoms

Full Conditions

Harder Than It Looks

Wrestle with the Pig

Conarette

Bye, Bye Butterfly

Talk to Your Toes

Jolly Jugular

Stone Age

Lichen or Leave It

Another Unknown Route

Par Four

Royal Rogers

Curtlovesugly

Squid Face aka Pine Away

Toy  Cows in Africa

To Bubb Or Not To Be

The crux was getting to the first bolt. The climbing was fun.

(From Stewart Green's

Rock Climbing Colorado

)

Fun trad climb.  Start just left of "

She's a Moaner

".  Jam a short, awkward crack (5.7) and follow the crack up right.  Finish up left and step right to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Fuzzy Wuzzy has varied, technical climbing off the deck. Go up the arete then up the corner/crack, step around right, then go left up the face above. It has lots of variety and interesting climbing! Use a 70m rope or 2 ropes.

Start about 20 feet left of Wrestle with the Pig on the right-hand side of the cliff. Climb up past two bolts into a v-corner. Place gear and jam up to below a large roof. Veer right undr the roof and make a technical move out the roof and onto a steep slab. Teeter up the face to the anchor. Good route!

Starting just right of She's a Moaner, climb a 10' pillar in the middle of the slab and head up a short corner to a good stance. Clip a bolt and power up the crack on good holds. Reach a bolt and then the anchor. Good route and climbing.

This is the bolted route just left of

Roof By-Pass

. It consists of very thin edging and smearing up the slab to just below the roof. Getting to the first bolt is spooky with the potential for a ankle breaking fall, but it is a well-placed bolt with a good stance for clipping. The crux is getting over the first bulge around the third bolt. It has 6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. This is a great climb, it is well worth doing.

Begin left of

Stone Age

on a large ledge.

Kayak for Sale

goes up left. Edge up a clean panel between crack systems to a high crux. Finish up right to anchors below a left-facing corner.

Start to the right of

Anorexic Lycra Dog

which is a bolted route up to anchors under the obvious roof on the left end of the crag.  The first pitch follows the obvious crack on the right side of the roof using good hand jams and solid footing.  Belay from either directly beside the roof lip using a small horn (8 feet to the right of

Lycra Dog's

belay anchors) and gear or push up further to a better belay ledge about 15 feet above the right side of the roof.  From there, follow the obvious crack to the summit and belay from the boulders on top.  Walk off to the climber's right down very low angle slab.

Just left of the

Jolly Jugular

dihedral is a bolted face.  Scramble up left or right to clip the first bolt.  Clip bolt, make tenuous moves to establish on the face.  From a good diagonal side-pull, reach high to clip second bolt.  Climb a ways up to the obvious, large crystals and the third bolt.  Follow the next few bolts up and left to a two bolt anchor.

Start in the obvious dihedral between the big boulders below the dome. Make a couple difficult flaring moves through a crux down low, then clip a bolt, and angle up and right under a small roof to the anchor. The two bolt anchor is currently hangers only with no lower off hardware.

Just left of

Stone Age

is a black streak, this route follows a line of bolts through the streak.  Start on the same sloping ledge as for

Stone Age

.  Make a couple of moves to a somewhat high first bolt (at least one 5.7 move).  Fun and thoughtful climbing above.  Consider a small to medium cam up high getting to last bolt before two bolt anchor.

"Armaj Das" is really one of the best beginner routes in the canyon. It's on par with "Staircase." Begin around left of the toe of the right-hand buttress.

Pitch 1: Climb easy cracks up right to a belay on a stance.

Pitch 2: Work up right on the slabby face and finish up right of a right-angling dihedral system.

Walk-off to the right (east).

The name comes from sounds made by a certain female on another route during the FA. Start left of a 10' pillar in the middle of the slab.  Climb up a short groove to the first bolt. Clip the bolt, and make nice face move up a steep face to a steep section at the fifth bolt. Solve the crux and reach a two-bolt anchor. Good climbing!

This is a great face climb on edges, sidepulls, and knobs.  At the left-center of the dome, locate the route about 30m right of the large, right-facing dihedral (

Roof Bypass

, #3).

Several mini-cruxes are possible by avoiding the flake on the right, but the difficulty is not increased.  This is a really fun route--do it.

On the other side of the roof that "Roof Bypass" edges, there is a route that slices though the right-most part of the roof/bulge. This is the next route left of "Anorexic Lycra Dog."

Pitch 1: Start in a vegetated crack, and climb up until you are under the roof/bulge. 5.9ish.

Pitch 2: Climb up into the roof/bulge, pull the single 5.10 move, and move right and up onto easier ground with little to crappy protection. Continue to the top and belay.

The route follows 7 bolts up edges and flakes to a two bolt anchor.

The name given in the spirit also of

She's a Moaner

- trad girls (1 on first ever lead) on an adjacent line to us were looking really good.

The line takes the natural seam to climber's right of

Roof Bypass

and stays right of the sport line & anchor for some spicy face climbing & a couple of finger locks, then joins up with

Roof Bypass

at the end, belay was rope around boulder & a cam, walk off as with other routes.

If you split it up into two pitches by moving left and use the sport anchor, you miss the fun cruxy moves.

Climb up the small crack that leads to a ledge system, and place protection in the horizontal crack above the ledge. The crack widens as you continue up. You will have to run out the last 10' up to the knob. At the knob, you can continue up the face or go back down. No beta is available past the knob. This is a good first lead, though there is a runout. This route is very tedious in the snow.

There is the possibility for a longer route!

The crux comes off the third bolt, but it is not that hard. Stewart Green's new guidebook calls it 10a. No way is it 10a. Give it a go!

The route starts on the far rightside of the cliff. Climb up past two bolts to a small overhang. Clip the third bolt and swing right to a large flake. Surmount the flake (cool moves) and veer right and up following bolts to the anchor. great climb for the grade. Should become popular.

First pitch (5.10d) starts in the aspen grove and goes up the face of the arete to a large ledge with a two bolt anchor.  Second pitch (5.8) continues up to the right of the anchor onto the face and to the top of the formation.

Start just right of "Ben Dover". Climb up on good rock past several bolts to a vertical groove. Make a hard move to gain the groove then climb on thin holds up the groove making a baffling move to reach a good hold. Clip another bolt and veer left to the anchor. Great route and climbing.

This is a bolted route to the right of

Blossoming Bosoms

. It looks like the bolts were just put in. There is dust still left on rock at some of the bolts. We climbed it since there wasn't a red tag left on it. We liked the moves. We thought the crux was through the last few bolts at the top.

Lance, Bill Parmenter, Robbie Mitchell.  Certainly climbed before- located in and just right of dark, deep crack by dihedral far left of Pine Away, right of

Armas Daj

, and barely to right of 5.10 bolted line on face before it bends to a dihedral corner.

P1. Climb on the face (or mix with crack moves, some vegetation though) just right of the deep crack up marvelous flakes and jugs 100+ feet to sculpted and rounded intersection of bouldered features under a small roof.  Nestled in this "ledge" are slightly flared channels/troughs that offer skilled placement opportunities using a combo of several larger nuts, cams, or Tri-cams.

P2. The final pitch is 40-50 foot left and upward slanted traverse with great lieback up to the same pine tree that sits atop Armas Daj.  The tree has a huge rap ring if you have two 60m ropes.  Our party chose the 4th class scramble up and to right (10 foot ascent on traverse behind a horn) to summit and do the walk-off.  The route on whole is well-protected, but not as many easy placements as Staircase.  However, runners can enhance as pro on the many flakes present. A generous length cordellete is recommended for the pro you'll need at the  belay station.  Steeper than most 5.5's, and thin enough on feet, occasionally, to justify the 5.6.  For hands, it is  a jug fest!  We'll be happy to rename for the FA party if claimed, but we haven't seen this route in beta.  In photo 230, Jolly Jugular is just 5-6 feet left of the man on rappel. Enjoy!  We all rate it 3 stars!

This is another fun, easy trad climb on Pine Cone.

Start in a chimney near the center of the dome, just left of

Ben Dover

(I think).  The prominent feature is 10' of perfect tight-hands crack near the top of the first pitch.  Belay at a good ledge.  Either finish up the crack above (unknown rating) or make your way up and right with a number of possibilities to belay at trees (5.5-5.7).  Descend off the back of the dome.

I can't find a description of this route, but it lies in between the 10a, unknown left of

Jolly Jugular

and the route

Don't Go

. I climbed an undercling flake up and followed the this up to the fifth bolt of the 10a unknown.

The route starts in a hand size crack that tops after 10 feet into a slab that reaches a small bulge. Pull the bulge that is well-protected and work up through a right-facing corner. The route has some lichen on it but is a fun route that is well-protected.

This route follows a prominant dihedral splitting the west face of P.C. Dome. The crux is a mantle at the top.

Start just right of Ben Dover. Climb a thin flake making somewhat tedious moves past two bolts. Gain a nice stance and follow the line of bolts to the anchor. Great climbing on good rock.

At the right end of Pine Cone Dome, look for a large R-facing dihedral that starts behind the cluster of trees.  Several variations are possible to get into the dihedral.  The easiest is to start far right and traverse the ramp up to the dihedral.  A second, spicier (and more difficult) direct start tackles the short corners and slabs just below the route.  This variation goes around 8+ and with the hard-to-place gear it is even harder.

Once you've moved up the slab, make a few difficult moves to get into the corner (for the 2nd variation; easier on the 1st var.).  This corner is awkward, a little loose, and quite strenuous and reachy for 5.7 (After reading these comments, I decided to just up the rating on this, but originally it was rated 7+).  I would give it 5.8 for sure--a little insecure and the crack is flared, making gear placement more difficult.  It felt harder seconding it behind my younger brother than leading Ben Dover (5.9).

Anyway, don't think this is going to be another 5.7 cakewalk.  All in all, the route is worth doing, but because of the discontinuous start and loose, grungy nature of the dihedral it only gets one star.

DESCENT: walk off the back side of the dome.

This is a bolted two pitch line. The 1st pitch goes at 5.9. The 2nd is the 5.10c. It is steeper in nature.

Start about ten feet right of Bye, Bye Butterfly. Climb up on good edges following the crack to a little bulge (no pun intented). Jam past the bulge and reach a good ledge. Place gear in a good flake and fire up to a large ledge. Go right and down to reach the anchor for "Kayak For Sale" and rap. Good route with good protection.

A note of sort. There are at least a hundred or more of these type routes waiting to done in ElevenMile Canyon.

This one was a mere 100 feet from the road.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pine Cone Dome