The first bolt is 25' off the deck under the small right-facing corner in the middle of the wall. It is not more than 5.3 up to that bolt. Go straight over the corner or even left of it - this is the crux move. Ignore the diagonal right sloping ledge out of the corner.

Look Ma, No Hands

Doggie Style

Mountaineers Route

The Backdoor

Woofs of a Wandering St. Bernard

Garden 'O' Weedin'

Madison Square Garden

Madison Square Garden is probably the best route on Garden Wall.  MSG clocks in at a burly 5.6 and sports 3 or 4 bolts depending on how you climb the route.  Head straight up to the small "overhang" about 25' up then work your way under it to the right.  Clip all the bolts you run across.  You can also go straight up over the small overhang for a variation called Look Ma, No Hands (5.6/5.7).  Once you set up an anchor, top rope your own variations.  Some nice views, no crowds, and a great place for beginners and beginning leaders.

Move right after the first bolt (skipping the roof) and work your way up to the right hand anchors. The 5.9 slab move above the last bolt can be bypassed by moving up the seam to the left of the bolt and doing a small mantle move(5.8). Once at the anchors, consider heading up Garden Party or Knee Surgery on P-Wall.

Climb the corner crack system between P- Wall and Garden Wall. Mostly Class 4 with a easy 5.0 move under the giant chock stone at the top. Very dirty and loose towards the top. Can be linked with a ramp traversing right out on to the P-Wall about 2/3 height.

We only climbed here because it was a goal of my partner and mine to do every section in the Slater book. It was a major disappointment. Slabby routes that are a bit tremulous, but not too exciting. Yeah, yeah, slab isn't exciting when it's got a low rating, but trust me, not exciting.

Lots of poison oak covers the base of this climb. You may be inclined to climb a variation out on the face until you can move left into the corner above the vegetation. You can finger, hand and arm jam without too much stress to the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in Garden Wall