An amazing roof crack bars the way to some nice moderate face climbing. Though it says 5 pitches it can easily be done in 3 or 4 if you tolerate some rope drag. Jim Corbett aided the roof crack many years ago and Shannon Stegg finished the route with Wayne and I recently. The route is named after Curt Johnson, a climber who died of cancer a couple years ago.

Curt Johnson Memorial Route

Bare-Knuckle Boxing

Human Trundle

Krystal Kreme

Fight The Power Drill

Dirty Love

Pitch 1&2: Climb the slab careful where you place gear in hollow flakes. Establish yourself under the first roof below the left facing corner. Climb out roof and into dihedral eventually going right on horizontal. It is very important to extend all placement up until now. If climbing on a single rope you need to extend these placements big time and should continue to extend placements as you traverse the rail to gain the seam. Aid up the seam using trickery. Eventually gaining the lone aid bolt. After the bolt bat hook up the blank overhang until you gain natural hooks and a few tied off pins trending right and up. Soon the angle kicks forwards, cams come back into play  and if dry you can free climb around the right side of large dead tree. Don’t attach this monster to your rope. Above the tree there is a 3/8x3.5” one bolt anchor. To be the most efficient on route i’d pull the rope up and fix it to this bolt. Feel free to add another bolt to the belay if you’d like. Then you can short fix up the vegetated corner to the next ledge and build another belay with a couple cams and a lost arrow. Otherwise just wait for your partner to arrive and climb the last 30’. 150’ A3+ 5.8

Pitch 3: Carefully climb off the belay and creep over the roof clipping the first bolt. Make the tricky mantle and fire into the amazing off balance slab/face past 4 more bolts and a couple gear placements. This pitch is super fun with a light rack. Only pieces needed are .75, #3, and blue tricam. Land on the giant ledge above.

180’ 5.11

Pitch 4:This pitch is still prettt dirty... I’ll try and scrub it soon. Climb face and crank the roof 14’ off ledge. There is a fixed pin you can clip. Once on the ramp trend up towards offwidth dihedral. Climb this fun wide corner to the rhodos. All gear. If you don’t like the looks of this locate the bolts on the outside of the corner on the steep face to the right.This is pitch 5 of Bare Knuckle Boxing and much cleaner. 80’ 10+

I started developing this route solo.  When I pulled the first little crux getting off the slab, out of the roof and into the corner I was slightly gripped and stepped high of a hook to sink a BOMBER cam. When I clipped it and took a deep breath I looked down and left of my ankles and there was a bolt with a bail biner on it. I was pretty surprised that someone would drill from that hook when they could have just stepped up and tossed a tricam/large nut/anything in above. Would have been much less sketch... This bolt was removed but I didn’t have any putty to fill the hole. If you go climb this then please fill that hole as it will take 30 seconds and can be done from good gear above. There is also an old half built anchor and some relics hanging out of the left side of the dihedral on the lower section of pitch 1 but it seems silly to climb that feature unless you were really just trying to avoid the loose flakes. These bolts dont change the character of the route and are funny historical pieces so I left them.

This route is cool with awkward "crack" climbing on p1, incredible face climbing on p2 and steep jug climbing on p4. Mostly gear anchors. Walk off top back to trail.

I found this route very challenging the entire way. It has only seen a handful of ascents so the rock can be exfoliating in the upper pitches.

Pitch 1: Climb up the groove and gingerly move over the loose flakes and block. Protection is possible. Angle right to a fixed pin. When I reached this it didn’t seem so solid so I had my partner toss me a rock and I set it in a little better. Move up to the bulge and clip the bolt, take a deep breath, and crank the really cool and really tricky crux moves. Continue up angling back left to belay at bolts in the corner. 5.11+

Pitch 2: The crux is over! But the climbing remains difficult. The next pitch is hard to read and has some major spice to it. Climb left through through the massive arch and out of sight from the belay gaining a short arete feature. Negotiate the thin face angling back right careful not to step on rotten feet passing very little gear and some bolts ending at a two bolt belay. This pitch would be difficult and scarier without halves as I feel the drag could get really bad and there is some very sharp stuff up there. 5.10+

Pitch 3. Climb straight up the face for a long pitch to the tree line using majority of your ropes. You will pass a couple bolts and better protection than the previous pitch but there is still another difficult sequence to be had midway up the pitch. 5.11

The bottom 4 pitches alone are called Fools Gold but when linked into Fight The Power you get a proper top to bottom, all gear, adventure route of the north face in its entirety. These pitches can be dirty and/or wet. If you want clean perfect rock don’t bother with this route.

Pitch 1 Trend up slab passing through shallow corners eventually running it out and traversing right to gain the upper crack of the chimney. Plug a large unit in crack and shimmy safely to ledge and make belay. 5.10

Pitch 2 Follow finger crack out right till it ends and then make a 20’ run to tree ledge up high. Build belay. 5.9

Pitch 3 The jungle pitch. From here choose your adventure... I went left to an offwidth  after decking when I went right. While climbing the offwidth you can look out left and see bolts for conquistador, cut back right for a bit and build a belay. 5.What??

Pitch 4 mantle over buldge and climb face eventually bushwhacking to the cat walk. Trend slightly right on the catwalk to put yourself under Fight The Power. 5.moss+

Pitches 5-7 climb super fun route Fight The Power.

A great adventure climb on the north face. The aid is fast and easy because the pins are fixed but  If one of the first few blows it could be a bad fall. This is the accurate description for the route. The other topo I have seen for this route is not correct and could get you in trouble if you don’t use your instincts.

Pitch 1 climb up the slab to the bolt and make a couple 5.10 moves to gain larger features. Cut left to the steep roof and aid out the roof on fixed knife blades. Belay on bolts above 5.10 A1

Pitch 2 climb up to bolt and cut left through and amazing “X” crack feature. Follow this to the small roof. Pull roof and belay at the base of large left facing corner 5.10

Pitch 3 climb corner and then cut right through the first of a few tricky boulder problems then up the face. Next you will hit 2 bolts in a row. French free through this section and cut right into right facing corner. Step left after climbing corner and continue up the face angling left past another bolt to a double bolt belay 5.11 A0

Pitch 4 climb left off belay on big jugs through the overhang then cut back right and continue straight up to the trees. 5.9

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main North Face