Climb the crux of

Boardwalk

(2nd pitch), and park in the rest pod. Look for a series of cobbles heading left. This is Light From Blue Horses. Traverse the stone warts past three bolts to a hanging belay. The next pitch is the crux. Climb up the obvious water groove past several ring bolts. Crimp, paste and palm your way up this featureless channel. There is a big run at the top of this pitch. Make sure your shoes are clean before you embark on this 40 foot section. Belay from gear.

This climb is very engaging for the grade.

Light From Blue Horses

Young Guns

Space Oddity (a.k.a. Significant Local)

Bell Crack

Mr. Rockbiter

TM Chimney

Never Ending Story

Fallout

Mainstreet

The 12th of Never

Dollywood

Revenge of the Nothing

Sidestreet

Boardwalk

Horn's Mother

This is absolutely wild and perhaps one of the most unique routes I have ever been on in Vedauwoo. Climb the 5.8 offwidth start of

Bell Crack

, and traverse left at the horizontal hand crack. Study your feet, and move quickly. The climbing through this crack just gets more and more exciting. Eventually it widens up to a #6, and you become engulfed in a crazy, wild, fucking adventure. *The key beta is to rack most if not all your cams on your left side.* The crux occurs in the last 10 feet. Belay at a ledge way, way left. Scramble down easily in chimney just next to

Horn's Mother

.

New anchors were added by Geoff Sluyter, closer together and with updated hardware. This uses the same start as

Space Oddity

then goes right, 10 bolts. The route has shed many holds since the original ascent. It is solid technical slab .12 to the overlap, .12+ through the overlap, and sustained .13 through the upper panel. It is Vedauwoo 13c. Consistent with other Vedauwoo slabs, add a letter if in the Front Range or Tensleep. Earlier descriptions of route say the crux is at 5th bolt overlap, which is incorrect. This route gets solidly harder past that point. It is long, sustained, and an amazing climb!

The Woo is not limited to offwidths and other ripper cracks for that matter.  The killer feldspar crystals embedded in the slabbier angles yield to amazing, intricate face climbing holds.  This route is by far the most spectacular face route in the Woo that I have been on.

Begin by soloing up an EZ chimney and belly crawl (every route here has some weirdness) across a ledge to reveal two studded paths.  The route out right is Young Guns, 13a... Both routes share the first bolt.  Get psyched and launch off for 110' of sustained and devious crystal pimping....

The beta: do hard moves, clip a bolt and repeat for 12 bolts total.  There are lots of tricky moves with a cruxy section along the way. AWESOME!

*Don't pull too hard on the "rest" flake 1/3 of the way up**  At the top, you have a choice of 3! anchors...The Fixe ring set (directly above last bolt) seems most prudent for bringing up your second.

Are you ready for a challenging off width experience? Bell Crack will probably ring your chimes. The only place it goes as thin as 'hands' is below the roof (crux), most of the climb is above it.

First, TAPE UP! Then begin on the Center Coke Bottle at #1 (on the photo-topo) and instead of traversing left as described for #1 (Boardwalk), go straight out, up and over the bulging roof on strenuous, rattly fists  Once you round the roof, start placing the big pro bro (see the shot). Then enter a gaping, 30' high flaring maw, stem up and protect it at the back if you want to take the time. Set another wide piece at the top of this nasty gash and begin heel and toe-ing up a vertical 35' gutter full of feldspar crystals - good friction! Belay on gear at the rounded top as indicated (B) on the topo for route # 1.

Your second will curse at you all the way to the top.

An anomaly of sorts, this little pitch is completely different than its main approach pitch...

Mainstreet

. Crimp and smear on crystals to a two-bolt anchor with rap rings.  The pitch is sustained until the last bolt.

This route starts in a cave on the very left side of Fall Wall.  It follows the chimney behind the Coke Bottle formation.  Don't try this late in the day.  Almost the entire climb is deep in the chimney/cave so it can be very dark.

P1 - Climb the water polished chimney veering right to a hand crack in the light.  Move back into the chimney by under clinging a flake.  Follow the chimney up past a large chocked boulder.  You may want to cut back on the Big Macs before trying this climb because getting around this chocked boulder is a squeeze.  Belay from on top of the chocked boulder.  If your knees are raw and you have had enough you can escape by moving up/right from this belay to the rappel anchors on Fallout or...

P2 - Move out left from the belay to the right facing wall and continue the chimney until you can escape left.

Start up

Mainstreet

and just after the crux, clip the bolt on the right face and head for the face.  A bolted anchor is slightly to the right of this bolt which is used as an intermediate anchor when rappelling rather than climbing up.  From this anchor, climb straight up the line of bolts crimping the small crystals along the way.  Do not traverse directly right after the third bolt.  This would be the Revenge of the Nothing.  Instead continue straight up, staying near the crack of

Mainstreet

.

There is a direct to this route as well, making a more obvious, plumb line.  For this, start to the right of

Mainstreet

and go up an offwidth/chimney formed by the boulder and the main wall.  Once on top of this block, climb the seam up to a small roof and bust over some good edges to link up with the lower bolted anchor part of the original route.  This start is harder than the original line, around 5.11c.  Placing gear is hard and tricky, perhaps warranting an "R".  According to Kelman, he said no one had lead it before, which is probably smart. FFA: Jason Haas, Jorge Mario Londano 06/06.

A 70 meter rope will just get you down from the anchors unless you continue up on

Mr. Rockbiter

.

This rarely traveled yet quality pitch lies at the juncture of the Coke Bottle and Fall Wall. Begin as if you were going to climb

TM Chimney

, but then move right (as soon as it's reasonable to do so) back into the daylight, and continue straight up. There is a direct start; it is more difficult and harder to protect.

To descend, rappel from good anchors on a ledge at the top of the climb. The anchors are about 10 feet right of where you finish.

This is a long grind and a good intro to 5.10 offwidth. It is considerably harder than

Grand Giraffe

but much easier than

Crack of Fear

. The crux section is fairly short and well-protected, but it is followed by a long stretch of 5.7 - 5.8 chimney that is likely to be runout. This is route #2 on the Coke Bottle overview photo.

Ascend 20' easily to two side-by-side bolts which mark the start of the difficulties. The next 15' are bulgey and the crux of the climb. Several small holds on the left keep the climbing from being too desperate. A #5 Camalot cam be walked through most of this section, but be careful as the crack gradually widens. The crux is over when you grab a chickenhead on the right from which you can reach a bolt. Continue for about 20', offwidth widening to squeeze, to another bolt, using the crack and chickenheads on the right; shortly before the 2nd bolt a large chickenhead can be draped with a full length sling. After the second bolt the crack is squeeze chimney and wider; Big bros provide most pro opportunities though another #5 Camalot coult probably be placed near the top; at any rate, you probably want some sort of gear plan for this section as it is 40 or 50' from the last bolt to the anchors. Eventually you reach a ledge which has bolt anchors about 10' to the right of the crack. Belaying at the end of the crack, rather than at the bolts, provides a more comfortable and directionally superior belay; I used a medium nut and a #4 Camalot for this anchor but a variety of different sized pieces would work.

From the belay, either rap 120' from the bolt anchors or climb

Mr. Rockbiter

50' of slabby 10a with 6 bolts.

Note that much of the grunting and scraping can be avoided by stemming outside of the crack, an easier but much less secure option probably best utilized by the second.

Dollywood is a really fun knob traverse with good exposure and gear. Start as for the classic OW

Mainstreet

. Climb an easy wide crack where you could place a finger sized cam in a horizontal or a #5 Camalot.  Clip the first bolt on

Mainstreet

and launch left into some wonderful knob climbing. The crux is at the 2nd bolt which involves some funky mantel moves.

Rap 50 feet or continue with Panther of the Weak....

Start by climbing

Mainstreet

until you reach the first bolt on the right wall with a jug right above it. Move right to a bolted anchor, clip it, and continue up two more bolts. Continuing straight up the bolts is

The Never Ending Story

. Instead of doing this, break right following the line of bolts utilizing small crystals and a lot of technical manuevers. It is a somewhat spicy lead but an amazing line that is overlooked. Good eye, Skip.

A 70 meter rope will just get you down to the belay ledge from the anchors (avoiding the intermediate anchor on

The Never Ending Story

).

Sidestreet is the original aid start freed at 5.12. It is short but fun.

This is route 1 on the photo of the Coke Bottle. This is an area classic which is marred by a potentially dangerous pure hanging belay. Start on the east side of the Coke Bottle, at the bottom of

Bell Crack

.

P1 (5.10): climb

Bell Crack

(chimney ~5.9) to the very obvious horizontal crack. Hand traverse left for about 30' until beneath the Boardwalk Crack. This traverse has very few footholds and while technically straightforward is quite strenous, especially placing gear. The belay is 100% hanging -- there are no footholds. If possible, set up the belay far enough to the left of the vertical crack to eliminate the risk of the P2 leader falling on the belayer.

P2 (5.11b): plough up the crack for about 25' to a rest. This crux section starts as #1.5 Friends and goes down to #1 Friends and widens to thin #2 Friends at the end. The crack is flared and climbs wider than the gear. The technical crux is probably the #1 section. If the belayer is directly below the crack, the crux is placing enough gear so that you won't crush him/her if you fall while at the same time not using up all your #1 and #1.5 pieces  Continue up the crack for another 80 or so feet of easy hands and chimney. I am not sure where the best belay is. There is a hangerless 3/8" bolt about 90' into the pitch. We belayed on a ledge about 120'. From here, it's a class 3 scramble to the top.

Horn's Mother is the overhanging, leaning, off-fist crack to the right of

Edward's Crack

on the Coke Bottle, of Walt's Wall. It is shaded in the Walt's Wall photo, attached.

The route is a must for lover's of offwidth, but it will abuse the wide-crack virgins. The two guys that followed me loved it, but they lost both Pride and blood on the route. From the first belay, one can walk two #4 Camalots up the crack for 40' or so with an occasional rest until the crack begins to taper down. Be prepared to overheat on the strenuous climb. People with small hands may find the climb hard at its grade. People with large hands might find it easier.

Description

Protection

Routes in Coke Bottle