Chromosome X

Nebulous Precision

Satuday Mourning

Trimming Hedges

Garden of Cucumbers

Man and Woman

Cannonball

Black Knight

Aberration

Tennis Ball

Tiny Toons

Cushions

Chromosone Y

Illusions Extension 1

Mutation

Terminalogical Inexactitude

Butt Ball

Begging For Bolts

Illusions Extension 2

Dream Realized

Flying Outhouse

Illusions

Gill's Grace

Hyperplasia

Star Shart

Jam Crack

Drilling  In The Dark

Lieback Crack

Limestone Cowboy

Community Effort

Bird shit banana split

Adios Amigos

Tooth and Nail

Mission Statement

Super Cannon Ball

Mighty Mouse

The Pansy

Cling or Swing

Start left of the roof in a dihedral, clip a low first bolt and head up but staying left of the roof, then heading right up to anchors.  The 4th bolt is hidden from the ground behind a bush up on the wall.  A fun and engaging climb, a bit stout.

Start right of the a crack on the ledge then wander around the bolts to a fun finish.

Up and around right of Bird shit banana split about 20 feet in the alcove you will see a east facing steep face.  Climb up the face pass two bolts to gain a ramp. From there climb up a finger crack that takes gear to a fixed pin.  From there climb up an right using a pocket to gain a crack that takes a small tcu.  I noted a bolt there now so it was added later by someone. You will find a set of chains at the top of the off width left.

Go up underneath overhang to obvious crack.  follow crack/corner, climb to the left of the corner after climbing past crack to top out where mission finishes, really fun moves with a juggy feel.  -Bolted by Mike Wiser & Emily Stewart-

Climbs the main tower in the amphitheater area  left of Bird Shit/Banana Split and the Aberration routes. Bolted with anchors. A sporty little endeavor

Awesome!  A very continuous climb with mostly small crimps, and periodic 'jugs' and jugs.  After mounting an inverted triangular piece of stone (origin of name?), rest on jugs for the short slab finish, as it is much harder than it looks.

Starts on the right side of the crack (dihedral) right of

Tennis Ball

. The hardest part is toward the middle, look out right for crimpers.

Despite the slick nature of this route it is nice on a cool day.

it's a tough route with a bulge in the middle of it. it climbs the a near featureless wall that climbs up and left. it's a short route.

Straight forward face climbing with a couple of reaches on nice black rock.  Good for the up on coming Logan Limestone leader.

Near the left end of Fucoidal quartzite is this very short kids climb.  You can make it as hard as a 5.8, if you wish.

A series of moves up a crack system.  Odd rock formation, do a move, rest on the large ledge, do another move, rest on the next big ledge, repeat.  Climb is easily protectable with nuts and cams, every bolt is within inches of a great placement.

Crux comes at the top (second to last bolt), the crack is difficult, but if you reach around you can find some good crimps off to the side to work with.

Shares the first 3 bolts of Chomosone X. Follow the arete up and stay left to chain anchors.

Do illusions and traverse past the anchors to the corner/crack.  Follow this up through 3 bolts over the mini roof to chain anchors left around the corner.  Some trad flair to this one.

Climb bolts up to some interesting old school anchors. Watch out for some suspect flakes.

P1) Kind of a one (or two) move wonder. Most of the climbing is in the 5.7-5.8 range. Crux comes going over a small bulge using a small pocket. There is a second pitch that is rarely climbed (it goes at about 5.11c). This is a fun route to run laps on.

P2) The second pitch is rarely climbed an it goes at about 5.11c, its not as good as the first, but isn't bad either! Climb the ever steepening face on edges to a decent rest at the flake. Climb right past the roof to chains.

This is a fun route to run laps on.

This route and Tennis Ball are only worth setting up a toprope for your kids/dogs to play on.  There are plenty of better climbs of the grade in the canyon.  You can however, lead this route on gear if you're in a ridiculous mood (as I was).  There's an easy scramble to the top to setup a toprope.

The crux comes just after mid-way (good rest right before the crux).  The real challenge of this route is the continuous nature of the climbing and the length.  Make sure to take enough draws.  You will need to either belay on top or take two ropes to rap.  (A 60 METER IS NOT LONG ENOUGH TO LOWER).  This is a great route.

Instead of going to the chains around the corner on the first extension of Illusions, continue straight up over the roof past three more bolts, clip the last bolt of Adios Amigos (A wee bit of rope out for that one) and continue to the anchors.  Getting through the roof is the crux.  Good route.

This is the furthest climb up canyon in the area.  Scramble up ~30' to a belay ledge with chain anchors. The climb follows the beautiful arete nearly to the top.    There are two lines from the belay, and I am not sure which is the original.  Both lines converge about a 1/3 of  the way up

Start Variation 1:  Go right of the tree off the belay.  The bolts are right above you on the vertical face.  After the third bolt (if you follow the crack system), there is a runout (~15-20 ft?).  There is a spot for a BD#2 cam if the runout bothers you (you can also traverse over to the arete to the nearby bolts).  The next bolt is on the slabby area on the face of the arete (join up with var. 2).  You have another small runout.  The bolt line continues up the arete.  Near the top, you will see an ancient rusty bolt on a bulge.  Don't climb up to that, chain anchors are to the right.

Start Variation 2(Original?):  The bolts looked older? Off the belay, go left around the tree and hop on the arete.  Go straight up the arete with the same finish as described above (avoiding the 15-20ft runout with 2 more bolts).

A 60 m will get you down to the belay anchors.  With a single rope you must lower to the belay anchors.  DO NOT try to lower to the ground.

This is an awesome long not greasy soft 10a.  The crux comes a few bolts up from the slabby runout section.  Excellent views from the belay station and from the climb.  I enjoyed the right start over the left start.  The right is more of  jug/vertical climbing, with the left being more slab.  Both felt about the same difficulty.

Just right of Tiny Toons is this good sport route.

starts at Terminal Inexactitude and goes right up the crack

Just to the left, about 8 feet of illusions, and right of tiny toons you will see 3 bolts heading up to the common anchor of tiny.  From there clip the ring on a chain/bolt and move up and right clipping the last bolt of illusions and finish it. Use the chains for illusions to descend.  I presume someone has top roped this before so first accent is not applicable. I placed the bolts in 2017 to make this a usable route from the ground up. I hope you find this a pleasant addition.

Climb up the large flake system to reach clean face moves. Finish in a sporty, gently overhung crack.

Nice jammy crack.  Climb the crack to the top of the pillar.  From here, either build an anchor, climb to the 'Community Effort' anchors, or climb to the top of 'Begging for Bolts'.

Goofy Start. I get up on the boulder and start off straddling the cave then go up right. All the good holds are super polished so just follow the shine. Good easy lead. Guide book says the Lost Bolt is the best 5.7 in the Canyon but I believe Drilling In The Dark Is

Scramble up 15-20 ft on easy terrain that can be 'protected' by a BD#3.  The next 20 ft feature a fun mostly finger size crack.  After the crack, go left around a small tree, up, and traverse right to the anchors for Black Knight.  Great route!  If only it was longer with more crack.

Easy climbing for the first couple bolts to a rest ledge.  Sequential crimps lead you through the crux.  The last couple clips are on large holds but the climbing is steep and pumpy.

This climbs the arete right of Illusions and 2 other routes.  Supposedly a key hold has broken off up high making this harder than the 5.9 that it was (rated in the book as a 5.9).

Just to right of Garden of Cuccumbers you can see a crack follow this up to a chain bolt I placed years ago with intent of changing it out for a real bolt hanger.  Now this is were the route joins Garden or actually it joins Bird.  Use any bolts you want there but Bird goes up to the right were Garden goes left. Clip the bolt up and right then use some medium nuts or smaller friend in the crack.  Climb up and left to a bolt then work up to the last bolt ( I just added this year to decrease the pucker factor a little.) Terminate above were you can walk off above and left through a gully or use the chains.  Sorry it took a few years to get the bolt hangers on it.

Long route on good rock.  Multiple cruxes and multiple rests.  A great route and a local favorite.

The technical crux comes right after the first bolt. Lunge to a jug from a sharp crimp to a good rest, then follow the yellow face up to a two small roofs. The desperate, pumped climber will bail right onto a huge no hands rest ledge at the 2nd to last bolt, but the route should be followed straight up on good holds past the roofs.  Clip another bolt and lieback a thin crack to the chains.

Thin crimpy climbing on the slightly overhanging rock.  A couple of cruxy reaches.

Technique-intensive, a little stemming and good footwork will make this one feel a more like its rating.  Crux comes about mid-way.

Climb Cannon Ball and then go left and finish on Tooth and Nail.

One of the better trad routes in Logan Canyon. Climb up past 2 bolts(completely unnecessary and I feel poorly placed. Is this a trad route or what?) directly up the face or use the fist crack to the left(OK, but dirty) or climb a quite splitter hand crack(quite good) around the right side up through a offwidth flake that all lead to the same place, a fat ledge(20 feet). Climb the flaky crack with protection that takes a little fidgeting to get it to sit right, but excellent, then up past another unnecessary bolt(good pro available) to the chains.

Underclings are the name of the game. Definitely worth giving it a go.  Much cleaner than the routes at Fucoidal. Short and spicy!

Description

Routes in Fucoidal Quartzite