Harder start leads to fun moderate climbing for the final few bolts.

The route is only a fairly flat and obvious face, the left side of which is capped by a steep headwall.   The headwall was rapped and inspected, but we deemed it too loose to be a safe climb.  Thus, Five Bolts to Nowhere was born because we stopped the route at the end of the solid rock.

Five Bolts to Nowhere

Left

Conjunction Junction

OK, its 5.3 but its still surprisingly fun.   Great route for the kids or for a beginner leader.   Mt Project suggests describing the crux, but we have no idea where it is.   When you find it, let us know!  Not many sport routes exist at this grade but it's actually a pretty good little climb.

Note:  There are anchor bolts in the upper face which could be used for toproping other routes.  We put them in hoping to have an upper pitch but after rapping off the top and scoping the rock we deemed it too loose and not worth creating a crappy upper pitch.   The rock up there was pretty hollow.

This route started out as a gift from Lord Choss Himself, but after hours and hours of scrubbing, brushing, blowing, and removing all things loose what was “Left” turned out to be a really nice climb.   We purposely kept the bolts close on this one so as to make the leader feel more confident with the rock quality but after all the cleaning it turned out to be not-so-necessary. Oh well… enjoy the gym spacing!    Climb the mildly overhanging brown face past glue-in bolts, and finish by pulling out a fun roof past bolt number 9 to reach the anchors up and over the lip. Morning sun through about 3pm.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Maple Haven