Climb up the middle of the huge boulder, starting by the creek. Crux moves off the deck, with easier moves up high.

Minimal options for pro; sling the small tree mid-face, before gaining a good cam or two near the top.

Through the Ferns

can be led on gear and also easily toproped (via a two bolt anchor up top).

Through the Ferns

Night Sounds

Bigcone Buttress

Spring Fed

East Edge

On the massive boulder near the start of the East Edge.

Steep climbing up the overhanging left side.

The crown jewel of the upper Sespe, and a standout for the entire county. As of this writing, the first pitch is the steepest, most technical crack in the Ventura backcountry.

Pitch One • Bigcone Roof • 5.11 75ft

Steep moves off the bat, protected by big cams. Fight your way up the small dihedral, then get in some small cams before cranking a bouldery first crux.

Climb into the alcove above and move right, placing more cams en route.

Above the alcove is the super steep roof crack. Jam your way out the roof and turn the lip.

Belay from two bolts.

Pitch Two • 5.7, 90ft

From the belay, head up and right toward the edge of the formation. A single bolt protects the face moves before reaching a crack. Follow the crack and then the buttress’ edge directly.

Belay from two bolts.

Getting down:

Rappel the route.

The easiest line on the big boulder. Can be top-roped or led on gear.

Shares a two bolt anchor with

Night Sounds.

​

At over three hundred feet, the East Edge of Bigcone Rock is one of the longest routes on the Central Coast. The route follows the leftside edge of the formation for three pitches, topping out on the dramatic summit of Bigcone Rock.

Pitch One - 85ft, 5.7 PG

Climb directly to a bolt, through steep terrain. Once established on the edge, run it out past another bolt. A thin section and crack system leads to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch Two - 90ft, 5.7  PG

From the belay, head up and left towards the edge. A tiny cam can be used to protect this section. Follow the edge directly, passing two bolts, until reaching the hueco dotted face above. Climb through the huecos until you reach the bolted anchor. Its possible to walk off at this point via the gulley.

Pitch Three - 155ft, 5.6 PG

Continue on the edge directly. Unprotected 5.6 leads upwards and to the first pro, below a small conifer. The climbing gets easier higher up.

Belay from two bolts.

Getting down:

Make two rappels down Bigcone Buttress.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bigcone Canyon