Also known as "East Face Right", this is probably the easiest route on Schmoe's Nose.  This route ascends the narrow east face, and then climbs a dihedral right (north) of the "nose", climbing a short overhang to the bridge of the nose and then on up the upper east face to the top.

The bottom of the east face is not well defined and contains many trees.  You can start from the bottom or bushwhack up north of the face and get on the rock higher up.  From the highest trees on the face, climb a crack near the right side of the face.  Getting into the dihedral of the nose is tricky route finding and somewhat runout.

In the dihedral is a series of three stacked blocks, called "the boogers".  There is a piton to the right of the first one, and the cracks on either side offer great pro, but this entire area is a bit spooky as it's not clear what is holding the entire mass in place.  Crank past the top overhanging booger and squeeze into a slot past it onto a giant belay ledge.  You can reach this spot from the highest trees with a 60m rope.

The final pitch is much easier, step over a small overhang and run up the low angle face.  Standard Flatiron fare, including a lack of protection.  Belay on the summit.  See the rock description for the descent.

North Nostril

North Ear Canal

From the North side, locate a vertical crack that starts 20' off the ground.  This is the "Backside (North Face), 5.9".  Instead of following the nice crack to the summit, delicately hand traverse up and right for 50' or so along various types of holds (some greasy, some bomber edges, some questionable edges, some cool, upside down huecos) to the rappel ledge, then up the easy 5.2 route to the summit.

The crux of this route will be just getting to it!  I soloed the

North Nostril

and didn't feel like descending that route, so instead I just followed this natural ramp / hand traverse down.  Eventually, I had to stem out to the very top of a medium-sized pine tree while using sketchy flakes on the rock to get back to the ground.

Can't say I recommend it, but it is probably a safer downclimb than the

North Nostril

.

Description

Protection

Routes in Schmoe's Nose