This is a cool line that is of a very moderate grade for Cedar Rock.  The upper streak tends to drain water longer than other routes here.

Climb the moderate ground (15' right of the first bolt of "Details...") up and left to first bolt which is the second one clipped on "Details at Ten".  Move left and up through bulge to another bolt.  From here climb straight up to the last bolt in the water streak.  Note: This last bolt was not shown on any previous guidebook topo's but was located during a rebolting effort.  Continue up to the same anchor as for "Details...".

Birthday Bash

Pawing the Void

Caught Up in the Air

Smoke Hole Weiners

Miracle Whip Alt

Polliwog

Off The Cuff

Oh! Mr. Friction

Caught up in the Air Direct

Stockings On The Mantle

Cedar Pie

Wild Ginger Root

Rawhide Arch

Passion and Warfare

New Creature

LeMenestrel Cramps

unknown 5.6 right

Wyoming Dick

Cedar Blossom

Tadpole Direct

I wanna be sedated

Happy Camper

Ex-squeeze Me

Orangutan Flake

Spirit Stick

Two In Agreement

Happy Ending

Adultery

unknown 5.9-

unknown 5.8

Toads R Us

Common Ground

Deception in the True Vine  **P1 only**

unknown 5.6 center

Ghouls Just Wanna Have Fun

Details at Ten

Unknown 5.5

Petrified Cedar

Miracle Whip

Sibling Revelry

Margin of Error

Climb past the low bolt and then some gear to a high second bolt (actually on "Birthday Bash") just below a bulge.  Continue up and slightly right into shallow groove past excellent edges and a couple pieces of gear (one in the streak, and the other out right of the streak ~ 20' below last bolt) to one more bolt. From the bolt make a few 10ish moves to easier ground which leads to a 2 bolt anchor at 150+ feet.

Some of the most technical and desperate face climbing in Pisgah. This route is on you from the ground to the chains.

This is one of my favorite face climbs anywhere and can be done in 1 long pitch.

P1. Climb up to a flake and traverse right to a stance. Head straight up on great gear, passing 1 bolt to a bulge and double bolt belay. 5.10 b/c 80 ft.

P2. Move up and right and clip a bolt. Make a difficult mantel move to a stance and another bolt. Climb up and left on great holds passing another bolt into a right facing feature. Follow the right facing feature passing 2 more bolts to a double bolt belay. 5.11a 110 ft.

Start on Sibling Revelry.  At the end of the flake is a small ledge.  From here go straight up the bolted white streak.  Veer slightly left to the pillar above the Sibling belay, crank the second crux up and right then go straight up to a bolted belay right of the Party bowl.

This is a fun crimp and smear campaign that follows eyebrows and a short right-angling crack directly up to the anchor above.

Climb the face past two bolts to the middle of the traverse from Toads into the Party Bowl.  Rap from the Bowl.

climb the scooped face to the top.  It gets lower angle the higher you go.  Walk off right.

Cedar Rock's first route, its easiest, and the only one suitable for beginners.

P1= Climb the short left arching dihedral to a nice ledge with a fixed belay.

P2 and/or 3- Run up the fun face to the top.

Rumour has it there is a second pitch anchor now.  Fine by me !

This is the line just left of Caught Up in the Air. Start the same as Caught Up in the Air but instead of moving right under the mini roof, head straight up past a line of bolts and finish on the Caught Up anchors. Don't write this one off as a squeeze job. It is a great independent line that offers some techy face/slab climbing. It also stays dry when most lines are wet.

The first route to go through the headwall.

P1= Climb a flake to a ledge with a bolt.  Face climb up to the corner above.  Belay at top of corner from a single bolt backed up w/ gear.

P2= Climb the face above past 4 bolts to a ledge w/ an anchor.  Crux.  Rap from here.

Historical note since current NC guide is slightly incorrect: Charles Ivey did the first pitch and dubbed it Fat Chance.  I honestly forget who put the bolts in on pitch two, but Shane Cobourn and I went up to finish it.  There were bail biners on the bolts so we claimed the FA despite missing the FFA due to wetness issues.  Sam and Victor nabbed the FFA around Christmas time, hence the name.

This is an amazing and long line with great technical slab movement and some spice.  Start below the right facing flake with two bolts on the flake.  Slab up some sloped ledges to two adjacent right facing flakes that take gear.  Plug gear and make some difficult moves up and left to gain the crystal seam below the flake.  Plug some big gear in the solution hole and start up onto the flake.  Make moves on the flake while clipping bolts (crux).  Finish the flake and trend up and right to a large eyebrow.  Continue pulling straight up above the eyebrow and follow large features out right.  Once you get close to the bolt start trending left to the bolt.  Follow good eyebrows slightly up and left, then up and right to the overlap.  Pull the overlap and continue another 15' to the bolts.

For the second pitch continue up and right between vertical edges for a short distance.  Walk off to the right.  Rarely done and doesn't take much gear.

Two pitches of stellar and bold climbing that will leave you wanting more.....or running away with your tail between your legs.

Pitch 1. Climb up to that high bolt. Launch up and left and then trend right to a stance, beneath a roof and good gear. Climb up and left to a bolt. Climb the amazing and sustained face to a double bolt anchor. 100 ft

Pitch 2. Climb up and left, getting gear whenever possible, to a perch beneath a bolt. Move right then up to a shallow left facing arch/corner feature passing 2 more bolts(Amazing!). Head up a few moves and then traverse left on great holds to a ledge and a double bolt anchor. 85 ft

Slightly thuggy with a touch of sharp rock.

Start on the right side of the Caught up in the Air "ledge" at a beautiful left facing crack/corner. Climb the clean corner to a stance at the roof leading to the arch feature.  Get in a big piece and finagle your way over the roof into the arch past some questionable rock and a few jams.  Get a big piece and jam and layoff the arch to a stance at the end of the feature.  Exit left here to the Caught Up anchor or climb to the top of the cliff in one long pitch passing old bolts with gear and new upgraded bolts to the top.  Was done originally in two pitches with a one bolt anchor.

Steep face climbing being one of the Best and most difficult routes at Cedar Rock.

Pitch 1 - climb low angled face past a bolt through a series of vertical cracks and belay at a small stance 5.11 90Ft.

Pitch 2 - climb up past a small corner and gain the steep face above which is in your Face 5.12 100Ft. to a bolted anchor.

5.11(c?) crux is the steep face on the front of the central buttress, protected by two bolts drilled by hand on the lead by Hickman from free stances, right of the crack on pitch 2. A second, easier 11 crux is at the start of the first pitch near ground level, protected with two bolts by Pell. The third bolt on pitch 1, 10' below the belay, was added after the 10d move there had been made without protection by the leader on the f.a. The belay for pitch 2 is semi-hanging from camming gear in the 1-1/2" to 3" range, and is best made standing left of the crack. This belay also serves "Squeeze Pop" by K. Kline/C. Caldwell, which goes up the crack then directly up the face instead of cutting right as for New Creature. Carry extra slings and biners to facilitate this belay.

Climb the thin face past two bolts to a ledge.  Belay shared with Oh! Mr. Friction and Miracle Whip.  One of the early Cedar routes.  You can top out on Mr. Friction or bail from first (and only)fixed belay.

Start on Rawhide Arch, but don't go far on it.  Cut right and up to an overlap with a bolt above it.  Go straight up past a couple bolts and belay at a single bolt.

P2- keep straight up and merge with the upper face on Rawhide Arch.  Belay and rappel from a tree.

This a decent warmup to other harder slab routes at Cedar.  The climb takes good, but spaced gear at times.  Probably several variations to the climb, due to its wandering slab nature.  Double ropes not a bad idea, otherwise sling most pieces up high long.

Start below a series of right facing crescent shaped flakes.  Move through this to a steep series of slab moves on good edges to a section of semi-detached blocks.  Skirt right around the blocks, then straight up (this section is shared with Cedar Pie).  When you are parallel to Cedar Pie's bolt out left, move up and right through eye brows to a good stance at the base of a left leaning ramp.  Follow the ramp to the quartz dike below the anchors.  Move left on the dike and exit up when it looks easy.

This is a frictiony direct variation into the water streak of Tadpole...  It avoids the vegetated left facing 5.9 corner to the left.

Start just left of "Sibling Revelry".  Step up and left onto face and climb past 2 bolts before moving back right into the black watergroove.  Continue up groove to merge into the upper portion of "Tadpole In The Party Bowl".

Since no one has entered this route yet I figured I would.  Anyway, this is one of the best single pitch routes around and should not be missed.  Those positive crimps are truly amazing!  Most of the climbing is probably in the hard 10, easy 11 range, with a definite crux at the end.

Climb up onto the hollow flake to gain a slab with 2 bolts.  Climb the slab on small but positive edges to a small ledge and gear.  Continue up past a bolt to another gear placement at another stance.  From here it's all bolts to the anchor.  The crux is at the last bolt and is best done slightly left.  The slab finish isn't hard, just spicy if you aren't expecting it.

Start on top of a flake against the face.  Clip the first bolt and pull onto the face (reachy).  Climb up and left onto the right leaning ramp.  Make some moves out right to clip the next bolt.  Climb eyebrows up and right clipping the next bolt.  Pull up to the bulge and clip the crux bolt.  Make the difficult moves over the bulge and onto the slab.  Climb the technical slab face for another 4 bolts and 30'.

The move over the first bolt and the crux moves may feel long if your short.  This has a lot of bolts for Cedar Rock and is a great one to work.

This is a cool water streak/groove that, for some reason, had never been done (or led anyway).  Very worthwhile climbing.

P-1  Climb Deception In The True Vine's first pitch.

P-2  Climb the left-hand groove past gear and 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor at the top.  120'

These pitches could easily be linked, providing a long pitch of stellar climbing.

Rap with one 60 meter via the "I Wanna Be Sedated" anchors.

Climb the obvious right arching feature to a tree.  Rap from tree.  Unfortunately, it is sometimes wet, being located beneath a tree island.

Excellent thin face climbing that keeps you on your toes the whole time.

Between Surfing w/ the Alien and Glass Dancer.

Start in the obvious weakness in the middle of the face.

Moderate climbing past ample gear leads to a bolt.

Climb past the bolt to an overlap with a crucial orange TCU. Pull the overlap to a bolt and ease past a tech thin face passing two more bolts. Climb into the steep headwall and traverse hard right to amazing edges and another bolt. Get awesome past this bolt and carefully climb to a two bolt anchor.

Offset Master Cams to 1' are very helpful.

5.11d. 90"

Descent. Lower off.

This is a hard new technical slab climb that is fun if you're into tiny holds on technical faces.  The crux section is short but will likely be quite challenging for the grade.  This route is about the same grade as "ghouls just wanna have fun", but a little more sustained.

P-1

Start on the same flake as for Happy Campers but climb easy flakes up and left to a reachy bolt in the water streak.  Step left and climb hard slab on small but positive edges past 2 more bolts to a stance.  From here the climbing is easier, and passes a 4th bolt and some gear.  Traverse up and right to the Happy Campers belay, or link into pitch 2.  5.11+

P-2

Move back left and climb easy terrain to the steep groove.  Climb the groove/streak past 3 bolts and a small cam at the top to a 2 bolt belay.  5.10

Climb the blocky face to a right facing flake system. Climb it up to the tree island. Rap down or continue up easy face to the top and bushwhack down to the right.

The crux is between the fourth and fifth bolt and is well protected. Very fun route.

This is a nice little slab route on the far east end of the main wall. An easy start leads directly into the crux, a pair of sharp friction moves with hand crimps and the risk of a short ground fall.

The first pitch is probably the most "popular" route at Cedar.

P1= climb the fun slab to a set of anchors 120 feet up. 5.8

P2= Traverse up and right into the Party Bowl. 50 feet.

or head straight up the spicy face to the top. 5.9+

This is an excellent pitch that climbs the steep headwall between P-2 of "Wild Ginger Root" and "Two In Agreement".  Of special note is that both WGR's first pitch and this one tend to dry before anything else on this part of the wall.  Both pitches are in the mid 11 range as well, making for a good sustained 2 pitch outing.

P-1

Climb pitch 1 of WGR.

P-2

Start by climbing Two In Agreement to the first bolt.  From here move up and slightly left to a shelf and the first bolt of "common ground".  Make funky moves out left to get into a shallow groove and a reachy clip (use a stiffy draw here if you're short).  Continue up using brows on the left and edges on the right to gain a good hold and 3rd bolt.  Move up the cool rail and past two more bolts.  At the last bolt, it is easiest to move left a little on small but good edges to gain the ledge with the flake and a 2 bolt belay/rap anchor.  100'.

P-3

Optional -- added a few years later and is at 11d/12a. Climb up easy slab to the roof. Pull the cool boulder problem into the short steep groove past 2 bolts and continue to the top and a rap anchor at about 100'. Rap the route with one rope.

This is P1 of a two-pitch 5.11R climb.  P1 is 5.9 and has a two-bolt anchor, which makes it a fun, well-protected "intro" climb for the mere mortals who go to Cedar.   There is one bolt but otherwise it goes on gear.   Awesome line through a very featured/broken section of the wall, ending with an elegant mantle sequence.

Start five feet left of where Caught up in the Air starts.  Use a vertical side-pull seam-thing to boulder up to a pocket where you place your first pro.  Move up and left, place another piece, stand carefully and clip the bolt above your head.   Move left and then up, through the interesting broken section of wall.  Head toward the left end of the roof which protects the anchor.   Decent gear and a very moderate but super-fun sequence takes you atop the ledge where you clip the anchor.

The crux is the wide crack through the bulge.

Climb onto the ledge with the block.  Move up thin terrain past 3 bolts to a sloping ledge.  Climb around the bulge and up to the 4th bolt.  Pull bulge by stepping right into water groove.  Continue up and left to a 2 bolt anchor.  Note: if that bulge/groove is wet, the move is gonna be a lot harder than it should be.

Follow the slab up to some water grooves.

The route is a little run out at the top but easy climbing during that part.

Amazing thin edging between well spaced pro.  Upgraded bolts make things more manageable.

A nice route that can be protected better than it appears, and can also be TR'ed after leading Mr.Friction. It's probably best to save the lead for the cooler months.

P1= Layback up the flake to a bolt on the left face.  Face climb past the bolt (crux) to the top of the flake.  Wander up and left past one more bolt to a bolted belay. 130 feet.

P2= Climb straight up past two bolts and some creative gear placements to the fabulous Party Bowl feature.  Continue up or rap from here.

Historical note since the current NC guide is slightly incorrect: Shane lead and I belayed the first pitch in a driving rain storm while Mark was working on pitch two.  Mark and I finished it up later.

This is definitely one of the hardest groove climbs at Cedar. Difficult stemming and tiny edges characterize this sustained pitch.

P-1

Climb either "Happy Campers" of "Wild Berry Pickin'" to their anchors.

P-2

Climb the shallow, steep and sustained groove above and slightly right of the "Happy Campers" anchor. Rap from a bolt anchor up on the slab at about 90'.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cedar Rock - Main Wall