Black Heart is another one of those routes that gets very little traffic, but most people that have done it will tell you that it's worth doing.

Climb up to the awkward roof, get bold, pull the roof, and immediately get rewarded with an amazing head wall that makes this route worth climbing!

Black Heart

Neural Processor

Algorithm

Bender

The Bewildering Minute

Pocket Debris

Empty Your Pockets

Pocket Rhythm

Tick the Brick

Left for Dead

This is the right-most of the three routes that split off the start on the far right of the main wall.  Four bolts of relatively easy climbing lead to a good rest before the festivities begin.  From here on someone has been generous enough to adorn the bolts with Fixe cable draws!  A pretty tough move starts off the hard climbing. A couple more hardish moves get you to a series of good pockets with bad feet.  Save some juice for the redpoint crux up high. This route hasn't seen much action up until now, but with the fixed draws, things should change in that respect.  This route is really good, albeit a little tough for the grade.  FYI the ledge is OFF!!!

Choss pockets and crimps, this route climbs a bit more technical than it's neighbor with the occasional big reach.  It's rumored that a big block broke off making this route harder, there's also a big triangular block near the last bolt that is cracked all the way through, I was able to skip it and it still felt solid at the grade.

This route comes in three distinct sections.  Quality, quality and quality!  A steep start leads to a hard technical sequence (probably the crux), then dig deep for the power needed to pull the final roof.  Sublime indeed!

Fun, easy, and steepish climbing leads up to the 4th bolt where a great bouldery sequence awaits on the clean slab below the first roof. If you have very small fingers you will find the two shallow mono's usable and enjoyable. If your fingers are larger than normal, this sequence will become much more difficult. (I was able to find an alternative, but the mono sequence is way cooler!). Above the monos, cop a good stem rest in the shallow corner, and then blast through the steeps above with very big, great moves on pockets. Here awaits the redpoint crux. Next move a bit right, and try to get a good shake off the hand shelf with poor feet, and then commit to the final little bouldery section before clipping the chains. A great route!

Great route from inside the cave up,  Solid deep pockets leads to a couple pinches with the Crux at the very top.  Save the pump as you'll need it to pull the Crux.   Very solid route with lots of options for holds, finding the right holds will make this route easier and quicker.  Commit to better holds before clipping will ensure you save your pump.

Pockets, side pulls, and gastons! Fun, easy, steepish climbing up to the 4th bolt then the crux is at the small roof. The reset is fun sustained climbing to the chains. Another Upper Division classic!

Pocket pulling leads to a distinct crux, followed by pulling the roof to the chains.

It’s just one hard move.

As if the collection of 3+ star 5.12s wasn’t enough, Upper Division is also home to Brickham Young, a trundled block with a sharp, two finger pocket on top, dead center.

The brick must be lifted clear of the ground by at least six inches. Be careful to choose your fingers wisely as you could easily blow your flash by attempting the challenge with the wrong hand. Some can fit three fingers, but it often hurts more than just committing to using two.

The challenge has also been completed by simultaneously pulling with the middle finger of each hand. It may be easier that way. As far as we know, the one-handed mono challenge is an open project.

Fun climbing on jugs and sidepulls leads to a high crux

Black Heart

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Upper Division Wall