A perfect warm-up for the Crooked Boulder! 

  Walk to the right side of the big overhanging face, around the corner, passing the big "plank" lobe features. As you walk around the right side it becomes more vertical and shorter. 

  Look for the large chunk feature midway up the face that is a nice, left facing sidepull. It will be approx 10ft from the corner. 

  Sitstart under the overhanging portion under the sidepull chunk. Start on the jugs and up and right to another good hold. Progress with your left to the chunk sidepull feature. Negotiate up and left into the crack and finish up through more jugs.

Whiskey Before Breakfast

Rosewood Casket

Life Is A House

Narco House

Narcolepsy Crack

Big Timin' In The Jungle

Get Your Gun (Direct)

Johnny Get Your Gun

James River Blues

Take Me Home, Country Road

Crooked Road

On the far right of the massive front face of the boulder you will find the enormous, long, skinny, hollow sounding "plank" features that look terribly suspect but somehow they're bomber. 

  When at the planks, look left to locate the enormous, abyssal mailbox slot jug, and then lower under that to find small jugs for the sit-start under the aggressive incline. 

  Sit start and move up into the next, smaller finger-bucket. pull through or bump into the humongous mailbox slot. match the slot and trend right to gain the larger-than-life plank to lead into the top-out to the left at the jugs.

Since this is the Crooked Road Boulder Ive named this boulder problem after a "well known" country song that one of the more famous locals, Wayne C Henderson, plays on the Crooked Road webpage. I liked the name of the song, so I called it "Rosewood Casket". 

  Walk to the far left side of the boulder, just past the tallest portion of the boulder. There is a large chunk of rock sticking up near the base if the boulder to the far left and this line sit starts approximately in front of this. 

  This boulder problem navigates along the very thin crack line that sit-starts to the bottom right of the crack and ascends up and left to top out at a notch. 

   Look under the steep portion of the boulder, low to the ground, and you will find a very deep pocket. Start with this. 

  Move up and left to negotiate past very small, thin pockets and upside-down sidepulls. There is a loose chunk in the center of the line. Dont pull this out... Just dont use it if youre scared of it. It didnt seem like it would blow, but I didnt want to use it so I avoided it... Also there is a huge, thin fin at the base. Its not off. Feel free to use it. I dont like eliminates and I graded it with this intended. 

  Work up and right to gain the notch with a jug up at the top. Top out over the notch. 

As you approach the tall, dark front face look to the right of the super highball. The lower right face has two prominent cracks, and this problem ascends the left crack. 

  Sit start on the small "starting block" slab that is under the boulder with your hands matched on the lower right side of the crack's base. pick up and cross over (my favorite move on the line) and up to the next quality jug on the adjacent side of the crack.  

  Gain a higher right side gaston on a raised portion inside. side-pull some to gain nice ripply pockets further up, which give way to the jugs that lead to the topout.

Sit start on Narcolepsy and off the first move of Narco, pull into the low, hidden, massive undercling to the low left of the crack. Post up and move HUGE move out left to gain the big sidepull hold which is the sit start to "Life is a House". Finish up and top out "LISH".

Find the two prominent crack lines on the front face. this line follows the right-most crack from the bottom to the top. 

  Sit start at the base of the boulder. Match the deep jug to the right of the crack to start. Make a fun, hard, crux move up into the crack involving a layback into the long, ample but slopey rail overhead at the crack. 

  Continue up the face along the crack line to the top out.

Go to the far left side of the boulder to the low arete. 

  Sit start with a foot on the large flat foot hold, hands on the low ledge. pull up and use the tiny micro crimps and the slopey back side of the arete to climb through fun moves. scale up to gain the further right sideways jug that is the top hold on "rosewood coffin" and top out above that.

Climb through the crux of "Johnny Get Your Gun" but once in the nice jug (after the crimpy part, before the huge stuff way right, and still on the main face), toss far to the upper left to small holds. Bump through the small holds to gain the massive jugs high up on the main face, and top out to the high left. 

  The right main jug has a thin "sharp" lip that would suck to dyno to, but is not bad at all to climb into. Up to you!

Sit start matched in the "Narcolepsy" start jug and move up and right through thin crimps. traverse right through more thin crux crimps to gain a deep jug feature leading to a move into the lower enormous mailbox slot jug that is on "James River Blues" and finish same as James.

Pretty much the reverse of Johnny Get Your Gun. Start James River Blues, traverse left and finish up Narcolepsy Crack. Better than Johnny Get Your Gun IMO

to the left side of the massive highball portion of the boulder, find the small projecting rock at the base of the boulder. In front of it will be an angled, deep slot jug. sit start here. 

  Move up from the sit to gain the higher, larger angled abyssal slot jug. then pull up to a jug, followed by a coarse, rough, massive sidepull jug. trend right and up into a crystally, large sloper jug feature. continue right with a large, committing move up to the next ledge where you will be greeted with one of the best holds on the boulder. a true thank god jug hole just where you want it.   Top out to the right at the same top as the "Life is a House" crack.

Big, dark, gnarly,super highball... All things that describe this lone boulder. The left side starts out tall and quickly crescendos to a high point at 25+ feet of slightly overhung awesomeness.    The boulder afterwards becomes less tall at 15 feet, but steeper. Further right it shortens still, and curves back around to its side where it tapers down to the earth. The boulders face overall is approximately 50+ feet long. There are two fantastic crack lines and plenty of face to pull on here.

Description

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Protection

Routes in Crooked Road Boulder