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Peak Mountain 3

Southwest Corner

FA Scott Gilbert, Jimmy Newberry, John Pearson, Bob Dickerson, Ernie Ulibarnie, Paul Nabors, 1976
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start on the southwest corner. Not a great climb, lots of loose blocks everywhere, but this might be the easiest way to the summit.

  1. Third-class up a loose gully behind and left of a huge block. end up at a big ledge piled high with more jenga blocks.

  2. An awkward but brief overhang, and then up a long chimney system to another large ledge. The rock above transitions from Wingate sandstone to the Kayenta, which looks darker and chossier and does not form clean cracks.(5.10)

  3. There are (or were, 3 decades ago) a couple of protruding, wedged flake vertical in orientation, maybe 50 feet up. Start just right of this. Head up a crack till it ends then make some face moves leftwards to reach the blocks (5.9, R). A couple more steep face moves above gain a large ledge.

  4. Move left to find a third-class scramble to the summit.

Location

west end of the formation. The initial loose gully is east of the start of a vertical crack with an overhang....

Protection

Standard desert rack


Routes in Candlestick Tower


  1. 2
    Southwest Corner
    5.10
    Trad