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Peak Mountain 3

Cecile

FA Jay Conway
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is named after my grandmother. She is 91 years old and going strong. I am pretty sure if she started climbing tomorrow she would flash it by Friday and down rate it to 12a.

Pitch One 12c: 70ft Start to the left of the pendulum tree. Clip a high bolt and do a boulder problem. Then place some gear and do another boulder problem to easier climbing and belay at a crack or at the tree.

Pitch Two 13d: 100ft Free climb Topless Tellers (A4). The corner looks easy but is ridiculously hard. At the top of the corner make a spooky exit move, clip a new bolt, then make a puzzling traverse/dyno left into Mines of Moria (A2). Launch into a hard and scary boulder problem with big fall potential (only clipping the good bolt). Finish with awesome and exposed climbing to the top.

Location

Pitch one starts just left of the pendulum tree. Pitch two climbs Topless Tellers into Mines of Moria.

Protection

Pitch one requires a couple of cams and a nut. For pitch two, you need a blue and orange TCU and maybe a nut or green alien for the top.