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Fading Light
Description
Around the corner from Platypus on the big beautiful always-sunny 55° wall, start matched on the obvious right-facing (and hollow sounding) flake at about head height. Directly under the lip from where you start Son of the Morning. Match on the flake, Paste your feet on the garbage footchips, Huck to the lip, And get on top. Note #1: Chris went all the way up the tall slab/4th class scramble on the FA, so I guess you should too.Note #2: don’t be persuaded by Chris’ insistence that this is “only V6”, this thing is V8 all day.
Location
Towards the right side of the 55° wall at about head height is an obvious right-facing crimp flake. That’s where you start Directly under the lip from where you start Son of the Morning.
P.S.A.- it’s probably best to avoid trying this thing when it’s wet or after rain. The flake is hollow and will definitely rip off someday, but we can delay the inevitable if we’re smart.Also, clean your shoes before you try this thing. This sandstone is already pretty soft, and if you have sand and rock on your shoes it’s just gonna grind away at the feet when you push on them. And the feet on this thing are already TERRIBLE, if any of them break it’s gonna be a major bummer.
Protection
Only needs a couple pads. Really easy to try solo.
Routes in I: Public Enemy Boulder
- 11Fading LightV7Bouldering