- Edit (TBD)
Description
Super tech bouldery route above the start of "It's Only Interment" (i.e. direct finish on thin seam). The route features two cruxes which come back to back with a sketchy clip thrown in between. First crux is an extension move off a side pull while the second crux is a full body lock-off/press-down off a miserable gaston to an incut hold way above with pasted feet (the full sequence is about V6-ish). Finish with a few feet of 5.10/V1 climbing using some gear for pro in the crack (New two bolt anchor as of 5/16 thanks to Greg Kuchyt). Good luck...
Location
Far left hand side of Cat's Ass Wall
Protection
Use small wire and cam in crack near the top. May wish to place gear below first bolt too. I climbed up to clip first bolt then down climb and start over (clipping first bolt messes up sequence). FA was pinkpointed. This route could be bouldered if one were bold enough and had enough pads though a large rock at the bottom would need to be moved or broken into smaller pieces somehow as its a real danger (crux is at about 16 feet)