We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

The Dumpster

FA Charlie Fowler, belayed by Eric Bjornstad (1986/10/13)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The bottom begins as very soft and sandy boulders, but cleans up as soon as you start up the fist-sized crack behind a flake in the wall. Reach a wide pod to squeeze inside to place gear in better rock, then set off up great hand jams to another rest just beneath the final overhang. This is #0.75 Camalots in a great crack leading to a flaring and sandy fist crack, with some face features on the right to help for stemming.

The Bjornstad guidebook says the descent is a cl. 3 walkoff, but it is more like a 5.4 slab/face walkoff where you and your follower might appreciate a belay and piece just before and after the crux section.

Location

This is the next corner to the right of the Portable Trash Unit. Alternatively, this is the prominent right-facing dihedral (and first one) left of the end of the South-facing wall.

Protection

Friends: (2) #1 through #3, (1) #3.5 according to guidebook. With cam bumping, we did Camalots 1 x #0.5 through #3.