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Peak Mountain 3

Bush-league Beefcake

FA Maximilian Barlerin, Jonah Durham, 8/2020
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

It is hard to say if this is a first ascent. Some local likely cinched down their headband and cruised these two pitches in a swami belt and cut off jeans back before I was born, but to the best of my knowledge, this portion of the Twin Owls has remained unclimbed at least in the style we did it.

P1. 5.12-. Start up the wide flared crack until you are able to step right into incipient cracks. Follow these cracks up past an undercling flake, and belay in a little alcove.

P2. 5.9+. Follow the finger crack up and right towards the skyline. Continue past flared handcrack, and belay off fins at the top.

This route is dedicated to the late Danny Dresher, a true friend we hold very close to our hearts.

[Edit] Based on Gilletts guidebook, this could be a free variation of an old 5.9 A2 route called Eclipse. Apparently Daly, climbed some version of that route at 11+ (well before I was born). Both appear to be in the general vicinity of the line we did, although the route descriptions don't really add up. I figured I would keep this here for now until there is more verification.

Location

Continue past

Wolf's Tooth

on the Roosting Ramp for about 100 feet.

Protection

A doubles rack with small cams including RPs.