- Edit (TBD)
Description
A long, varied pitch with lots of 5.11 climbing and a wild 5.12 crux. A great line in an incredible setting. Full value.Stem across the stream and begin by climbing the initial corner of Mechanics' Route. Step right after 35' to a line of bolts that follow a technical arête and lead to a 2-bolt anchor beneath a square roof (5.11d to here, and fully worthy in its own right). Continue climbing past the anchor and wrestle your way into the crux - a cryptic, holdless corner. Work your Houdini magic and will yourself to stay in there, then keep fighting to reach a well-earned rest. Boulder up and right to gain easier ground and continue to a 2-bolt anchor on a fantastic perch.Descent: A 70m rope doesn't quite reach, at least not without some minor shenanigans... It's best to lower to the mid-anchor and descend again.
Location
Central Buttress. Hike up the Huntington Ravine trail until reaching the obvious slab at the top of the talus field. Scramble up ledges near the stream to reach a belay bench just below the large corner that is Pitch 1 of Mechanics' Route.
Protection
Single rack to #2, Nuts. Long slings are useful high on the route.