Up in Smoke

This is a bold and steep route up the south face of the Proto Pipe. You will need a cool head, a good eye for gear placements, and some endurance for this one.

Climb through a section of poor rock protected by three bolts. After this, the committing climbing begins. Find a series of good holds that are just right of a small dihedral. Climb well above your last bolt to a stance, place some gear, and then follow a few widely spaced bolts past two bulges to a crack near the top. There are a number of good holds on this climb that are a little hard to see from below, so if you find yourself trying to pull on a heinous crimp look around a bit.

Gear can be found between the bolts although there is potential for some long falls. I'm right on the fence as to whether this is PG13 and R, so for now I have posted it as an R.

I think this climb weighs in at 10+, Marcy felt it was harder.

Starts about 10' to the right of the original route on this formation (also named Proto Pipe, 5.11b).

Nuts, single set of cams through #3 Camalot with extras from 1"-3".