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Peak Mountain 3

Song of the Canyon Wren

FA Jeff Widen, Tony Valdes, 1986. FFA: John Rosholt, 1994.
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Description

The route starts as hands/wide hands climbing past an old fixed hex. The angle kicks back to slightly overhanging wide hands for 15 ft through a bulge to a stance. From the stance a short section of easy offwidth leads to a sloping ledge and a set of bolted anchors. It seems the original ascent tension traversed to the right to gain a thin hands splitter, we climbed the crack straight off the ledge which is perfect hands for a ways before eventually pinching down to stacks before the next anchor.

Location

On the north side of the valley, Song of the Canyon Wren is the obvious splitter crack that pinches shut at a ledge, with another crack opening up to the right at it's terminus. Anchors are visible from the road.

Protection

Doubles from .75-4 Camalots with extra 2's and 3's. If climbing the right crack take some extra .75 and 1's. A couple of alpine draws.


Routes in Dry Fork of Bull Canyon


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    Song of the Canyon Wren
    5.11-
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