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MapDescription
Nice climbing with a little crux midway where it's wide and another pulling the lip of the upper (right) roof crack. Face holds on the right wall over the lip. Very fun climbing. Reminds me of Vedauwoo.
This route is
The Anti-Sport
brother. Both have well-protected trad roofs!
Location
From
Tunnel of Love
area, scramble over right onto a giant rock and walk up to the bush at the start of the crack. Up the crack, and out the right of two roof cracks.
Protection
Gear up to #4 BD Camalot. A #4 midway and a #4 in/over the roof are nice. A 2 bolt anchor is on top. You can also use these anchors for the top pitch of Dan Hare's 1977 route, Spare Rib, which is the left roof crack (wide).
Routes in First Tier
- 8The Sport Climber's Demise5.10+Trad