- Edit (TBD)
Description
Bingham describes this as "one of the best crack pitches in the park". With a description like that, I had to give it a try. It is worth the effort, if you are in the area.
This climb liebacks an incredible dihedral with multiple stepped roofs. The route is very pumpy for the grade and will eat .5 and .75 camalots.
The anchor situation is a little funky on this climb. There is a 2 bolt anchor in the middle of the slab, but no clear way to reach it. You could continue to the top of the formation, but the slabs above are loose and runout. The best option is to step to the left and rap off a chicken head. Bring some extra webbing just in case.
Location
This right facing corner is found on the lower tier of the Great wall and just left of a large triangular roof.
Protection
Gear to #3 camalot, w/ extras in the .5 to .75 range.