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Peak Mountain 3

Stepping Into Blue Sky

5.11c
sport
FA p1 - maybe TL (using the long-gone tree), p2 - JBak July '08, p1 + p2 back-to-back, Josie Wodraska, June 2012
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This Tony Lusk project is one of the best and steepest 5.11s on the mountain. Tricky, burly, sustained.

This route can be done 2 ways...

  1. Original start is down on the corner and leads up to SE face at about 11b. Eases off after the 4th bolt. Clip one more and go around the corner to a surprisingly comfy belay stance. 2nd pitch traverses left a bit more, then heads up the spectacular, forearm-testing, overhanging arete for 45 more feet to anchor. Seems 11c done this way. This is my preferred method, but...

  2. (Dr. Skye) Do the finger-tearing start of Dr. Evil and head directly onto the 2nd pitch of Blue Sky. Slightly harder and eliminates the belay.

Location

Starts ON the corner formed by the SW and SE faces. Move right onto the SE face, go up for 5 bolts where it gets easy, traverse left around the corner to a double-bolt belay anchor on the SW face. Pitch 2 climbs up just left of the overhanging corner.

Protection

Bolts with chain anchors.

Routes in The Steep