Beta Junkie

Anyone who can tell me how to actually climb this route gets a gold star...ok, Hard start move fast on small footholds and smearing using undercling hold with right hand. Climb the route near the bolt line using the cracks and legdes. Hand jam and work your way to the face below a huge jug, dyno here and work your way to the steep roof. Side pull on left, stay center, step high left and smear foot on side of roof, stand, reach high right to good hold stem your way to the chains. This route is awesome and is easy to toprope to get it dialed before you lead it. Classic route, exposed at times, fun and well bolted.

Middle of the Tall Cliffs, 20 feet left of the large painted 8. See picture.

6 bolts to chains.