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Peak Mountain 3

Smith Rock Group Traverse

FA Bryan Starick and Zack Wentz
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Quite the adventurous day out in some desert alpine-style climbing on one of Smith's most photogenic features!

Start as for Vulture Ridge (5.6 X) by approaching the back side of the southern tip area and follow the first gully on the right. Climb this gully to the ridge (2 pitches, 5.6 X).

Once on the ridge, use 4th class terrain management techniques (it's SUPER exposed on the right side of the ridge) to traverse up and down through the spires until you reach Vulture Gully. Once at a prominent spire within sight of Vulture Gully, rappel off a large horn to a dirty ledge approx. 2/3 of the way off the ground from upper Vulture Gully. Note: Be extremely mindful from here on out about rockfall as anything you pull off may cascade into parties below you at the base of the Phoenix crags.

Once on the ledge, traverse across the ledge until reaching the final gully that leads back up to the ridge (many options here, we went for the final gully on the ledge system). In this gully, climb a decent face to the right, then traverse left into a steep bulge move on horrendous rock (5.9+ X). When pulling this bulge, you will arrive atop Vulture Ridge again. 3rd class from here around the remainder of the ridge.

Reach the base of the west tower for Smith Summit by hiking around to the base. Follow the route West Tower (5.4 A1) to a 2-bolt anchor. Belaying from this 2-bolt anchor, traverse across to the true summit of the west tower of Smith Summit, and use another 2-bolt anchor to traverse back to the top of West Tower. Rappel the route west tower back to the ledge you started on.

From here, hike along the ridge to the right (NW) until reaching a saddle between Arrowpoint and the Platform. Choose to either climb to the top of Arrowpoint (5.6 X, 2 pitches) or the Platform from here (also 5.6 X, 2 pitches). Note: to claim this traverse, both towers need to be summited. Either downclimb or rappel each tower with a single 60m rope.

After summiting both Arrowpoint and the Platform, scramble down to the top of the Northeast Face (finish for Sky Ridge and Sky Dive). Collect your final tower selfie here. Get psyched; you just traversed the most iconic feature at Smith Rock!

Rappel as you would for Wherever I May Roam, Sky Ridge, or any other route finishing atop the Northeast Face of the Smith Rock Group.

Location

Hike along the riverside trail as you would to approach Asterix Pass. Once nearing Asterix Pass, stay low near the river on the main trail alongside the Crooked River. Continue hiking on this trail past the Phoenix Wall and the Southern Tip. Once approx. 0.25 miles beyond the Phoenix Buttress, find a faint trail leading uphill into the gullies behind the Southern Tip. Follow the path of least resistance to reach a rotten gully.

Protection

Single rack. Bolts on the A1 bolt ladder to reach the top of Smith Summit. No bolts on anything until reaching the West Tower. There may be a fixed rappel sling on the tower used to rappel onto the ledge in Vulture Gully, but will likely need replacing. Bring extra bulk webbing (I suggest about 5-10m) to sling whatever horns you need to rappel or bail should the route get the best of you. A 60m rope/tagline or half/twin ropes are recommended to make bailing easier. 2-bolt anchors atop Smith Summit and the Platform. I bolt and a block is used to rappel off Arrowpoint.