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Peak Mountain 3

The Heavy Hitter

FA Mike Moore
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Description

I was told that the first ascensionist wanted to rate this climb 5.11a. I am not sure if a final rating has been decided, but I consider it to be a mid-range 5.10.

There is a tricky sequence at the bottom of this route (smearing feet), followed by easier climbing. This second "crux" involves moving through some huge huecos near the top. If you proceed left through the huecos the climbing is easier, but more reachy; proceed to the right, and you have a few harder moves but they are very straight forward.

Location

This line was bolted after Roxanna's new guide was published, so it is not included in her topo. It is the fifth route on the right as you enter the corridor from the lower approach, and starts in a right-facing scooped corner.

Protection

Several bolts to the shiny new chains.