- Edit (TBD)
Description
There is some good climbing to be had here once you get past the first 20' of nonsense, and it could all be improved with a very vigorous brushing. The chipped hold (a broken out section of rock in a shallow corner to create a solid 1" edge) is indeed out of character for the route overall but takes the route from being potentially VERY hard to being relatively moderate but still insecure. A reachy crux follows, one that would be very hard for short climbers, reaching to the distant arete.
Once on the arete, continue up easier climbing to the top, where a 2-bolt anchor is set over a large ledge. Rap 85' from this anchor, as lowering will be tough on your rope, owing to said ledge.
Location
This route climbs the obvious line of bolts & pins to the right of the right-facing corner of
Spanky Goes to Hollywood
past a few cruxes then up the arete to a bolted anchor.
Protection
A dozen draws and slings. A stopper can be used to swage the second bolt, since there is a nut but no hanger on it. That said, the climbing at the second bolt is easy and a cam could be placed in a horizontal if one felt the need.
Routes in Swift Rock
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