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Peak Mountain 3

Drowning in a River of Disturbance

FA A. Pon & E. Pain, 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

There is some good climbing to be had here once you get past the first 20' of nonsense, and it could all be improved with a very vigorous brushing. The chipped hold (a broken out section of rock in a shallow corner to create a solid 1" edge) is indeed out of character for the route overall but takes the route from being potentially VERY hard to being relatively moderate but still insecure. A reachy crux follows, one that would be very hard for short climbers, reaching to the distant arete.

Once on the arete, continue up easier climbing to the top, where a 2-bolt anchor is set over a large ledge. Rap 85' from this anchor, as lowering will be tough on your rope, owing to said ledge.

Location

This route climbs the obvious line of bolts & pins to the right of the right-facing corner of

Spanky Goes to Hollywood

past a few cruxes then up the arete to a bolted anchor.

Protection

A dozen draws and slings. A stopper can be used to swage the second bolt, since there is a nut but no hanger on it. That said, the climbing at the second bolt is easy and a cam could be placed in a horizontal if one felt the need.


Routes in Swift Rock


  1. 2
    Drowning in a River of Disturbance
    5.10
    Sport