- Edit (TBD)
Description
Above the Short Wave anchor is a steep mostly blank wall that becomes more featured and therefore easier the higher you go. This extension completes the line to the top of the wall and shares the Barking Spiders anchor.
Climb Short Wave to the anchor at the sloping ledge. Clip the anchor, take a step left, climb up a little to clip the first bolt on the extension and get ready to explode. Locate a small left hand sidepull, post up, balance off of an improbable right hand sloper and spring for one of the holds up and right. The movement in this crux is somewhat moonboard-like. Work to keep control. A few more hard moves lead to a clipping position. After the second bolt above the anchor things ease off. Rest up and climb past one more bolt on climbing no harder than 5.11.
It's a new route, some small stuff may exfoliate but I did my best to clean it up. The grade is based off of the crux. V7? you be the judge. Enjoy it! I did.
Location
An extension off of the top of Short Wave 5.11b, located on the left end of the New Wave ledge.
Protection
8 bolts from the ground to the anchor including the ones clipped on Short Wave.
Routes in New Wave
- 3Cold Wave5.13aSport