- Edit (TBD)
Description
pitch one climbs through a bit of loose rock to the base of an off width.
pitch two climbs the 5 inch crack for 50' then follows a low angle ramp into the back of a chimney
pitch three if you're skinny enough squeeze the constriction and chimney climb until you are forced out. climb past a ledge and around the corner to a cam belay.the pitch could be more difficult if you can't squeeze through.
Pitch four and five climb straight up the chimney any way you can.There are a number of wedged boulders to navigate around that have plenty of spots for good pro.
Location
The route is on the north side of the River Road and requires a boat to access. If you stop at mile marker 5 there is a large pull out on the right. Park there and look across and slightly up river.The route is the largest and most obvious dihedral
Protection
Bring a double set from #.5 to #6 friend, a set of stoppers, and many long runners
There are no bolts on this route. For the descent the FA Wrapped from a large bush at the top of the chimney to a large boulder at the top of the first squeeze then to the ground. This route is actually in Arches so drilling is not allowed.