- Edit (TBD)
Description
A bipolar route. Half loafy Schneb-slab, half fun steep crack. Sunny for those cooler days and a cool perspective on the Oak Creek Spire area. On the FA day, cattle ran amok in the canyon.
P1--The crux is the mini-corner past the 1st bolt with some aggressive reaching. Commence slab wandering up and right and drift back left. End at edge of mega terrace. There are still the obligatory Schnebly crispy bits throughout, but anything big was removed. Bolts and a #3. (.10+ PG13, 100')
Intermission jaunt up mega-terrace to the left, over sand, block and bush to the base of the 2nd pitch splitter.
P2--Why you came...the rad disjointed splitter that can be seen from afar. Tips start, progressively widening through the sizes to finish on cupped hands. There are face features, stance shelves, and some awkward mantles throughout, but this is a pretty cool crack pitch that climbs surprisingly steeply and is on generally great top-shelf Schnebly. Much cleaning was done, so enjoy! (.11-, 115')
Location
Refer to the area page for directions to the base. Rap the route with one 70m rope.
Protection
Bolts on P1 and one #3. In BD C4 sizes: (2X) red C3-.5 (3X) .75-#2 (1X) #3 slings, draws (1X) 70m rope
Routes in Beef Country Buttress
- 1Open Range5.11-Trad