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Peak Mountain 3

Banana Dreams

FA Vern Clevenger, May, 1974
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is an excellent, though seldom climbed alternative finish to Hardd. It starts in the alcove above the 11b crux of P2, and takes the left-hand crack above and out of the alcove where Hardd heads up and to the right.  It can be argued that this pitch is actually a

more

direct line than the standard finish to Hardd.

The crack is a continuous 6 inches in width so you can really plug-into it once you climb out of the alcove.  Head straight up to the top.

Tip: It isn't necessary to carry your wide gear up the 11b thin section. Instead, stop in the alcove above the crux and lower a loop of rope to your belayer so you can pull the heavier gear on up.

Location

Climb the 5.11b P2 crux on Hardd to the alcove.  Banana Dreams is the left-hand exit out of the alcove.

Protection

Gear to 6", including 3 or 4 6" pieces