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Peak Mountain 3

Sons of Thunder

FA Slater/Klis/Whitaker, 6-2011 GU
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Although Sons of Thunder parallels Crossinng the Milky Way for half their lengths, it is a substantially different climb. High quality face climbing on sometimes thin features. First two pitches are 4 stars. Most rap off after that.

P1. 5.8, 50m+. 4b's, gear.Start as per Crossing the Milky Way, but at pocket (past bolt), place cam and head straight up runnel past 2 bolts to right facing flake and another bolt. Chain anchors

P2. 5.8, 40m+. There are 3b's. Chain anchors. (This route is of high quality to this point. If you want to top out, then you have two less than stellar pitches above. You can do a 2 rope rappel from here or continue to the top for a walk off.)

We ended up just scrambling to the easy ramp/ledge above and set up belay in big rocks below right facing flakes.

P3/4. 50m+. I thought the guide said 5.6 and thought the way I finally managed liebacking the flake to the hand crack was a tricky, intimidating, no pro 5.6. Don't try to offwidth the flake. Using unusual lieback technique. gain the nearly horizontal edge of the first flake and then go for the handcrack above, Keep going on cracks and seams over moderate ground and decreasing quality rock. Belay on gear in the summit blocks. Walk off climbers left.

Location

Far right side of ledge that can be accessed from obvious recess under apron at toe of buttress.(Where you would naturally stash your packs) A little bushwhacking is involved, less if you can find the break in the bushes and far less than if you try to approach from below. You likely will pass the 1st bolt and start because the wall is generally blank looking and you are looking for a 5.7 start.

A well cairned and pruned trail leads down. Walk climber's left toward looming steep faced overhang/roof, with hardware at the lip. Cairns lead left before you get to the very top.

Protection

A full rack to 3" (blue). You don't need much gear on any pitch, but you will be happy you have every size by the time you get done.