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Peak Mountain 3

The Nose

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Description

A short section of steep hand jamming gives way to moderate (5.6) face climbing. Certainly the steepest jams within 100 miles. When toproping, avoid falling early in the roof or potentially swing into the spike.

Approach: Hike down to the bottom of the main block and curve around towards the west slightly. You'll know it when you see it.

Protection

The pro is good and the crack is reasonably wide. Bolts on top and another set right after the roof.

Update: As of March 2006, the fixed anchors atop the Nose were replaced. The new bolts are a 3/8" Fixe double-wedge expansion bolt and a 12mm Fixe Triplex expansion bolt.